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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;verybrad, post: 69421, member: 37&quot;]If when you are cleaning it with spirits, the areas where there is no finish look like they are finished when wet, you probably don&#039;t need to put any color in to the bare areas.&nbsp; I usually go over a piece with lacquer thinner to remove any oxidized finish and thin and even out what finish is left before doing anything else. </p><p><br /></p><p>This sounds easy but in reality is a bit tricky.&nbsp; If you get the finish too wet with lacquer thinner, it starts to bubble and strip it.&nbsp; This is not what you want to have happen.&nbsp; I work in fast long strokes with the grain and don&#039;t get too much lacquer thinner on anything.&nbsp; You have to keep enough lacquer thinner on your rag that it doesn&#039;t get too sticky and not too much so that it starts leaving too much behind. </p><p><br /></p><p>Once I have evened out the finish, I go over the whole thing with an oil-varnish.&nbsp; I make my own with one part oil-based varnish, one part mineral spirits, and one part tung oil. There are commercial products that approximate this.&nbsp; You may need to re-oil any particularly bare/dry areas. 2-3 coats with steel wool/or nylon finishing pad to remove imperfections after coats should be sufficient. I usually put a coat of paste wax as a final protective coat once the finish is dry.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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