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<p>[QUOTE="afantiques, post: 117158, member: 25"]Typically the balance pivots have a pierced jewel and flat capstone each end, which is four, the impulse pin should be a jewel, the lever pivots should be jewelled, so that makes 7 in total, mostly hidden. These are the parts that move fastest where the jewels do most to prevent wear. If the escape wheel pivots are jewelled, that's 9.</p><p><br /></p><p>Jewels on the train wheels are usually visible at one end so for each one you see, add 2. If it is jewelled all the way to the centre, the total is 17, quite a usual figure for a jewel count.</p><p><br /></p><p>Adding capstones to pivots other than the balance staff adds to the overall count. They also add expense and a presumption of quality. Having the jewels set in individual screwed seats is another sign of quality. </p><p><br /></p><p>Automatic watches (self winding) earn a few more jewels for the rotor and transfer arbors, so the usual count is 23. Jewelling the barrel pivots is a bit over the top but some top grade US pocket watches have this.</p><p><br /></p><p>This all applies to lever escapement watches, cylinder escapements found in the cheaper Swiss watches typically have fewer jewels due to the construction and function of the escapement.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Exceptions are watches made in Switzerland in the late 19th C for sale in America, these were made to look highly jewelled like top grade US watches but only had jewels where they were visible. Made to deceive.</p><p><br /></p><p>In the 1960s there was a fad for wristwatches with absurd jewel counts, up to 60 or so. These tended to be automatic watches with entirely non functional jewels dotted all over the rotor.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="afantiques, post: 117158, member: 25"]Typically the balance pivots have a pierced jewel and flat capstone each end, which is four, the impulse pin should be a jewel, the lever pivots should be jewelled, so that makes 7 in total, mostly hidden. These are the parts that move fastest where the jewels do most to prevent wear. If the escape wheel pivots are jewelled, that's 9. Jewels on the train wheels are usually visible at one end so for each one you see, add 2. If it is jewelled all the way to the centre, the total is 17, quite a usual figure for a jewel count. Adding capstones to pivots other than the balance staff adds to the overall count. They also add expense and a presumption of quality. Having the jewels set in individual screwed seats is another sign of quality. Automatic watches (self winding) earn a few more jewels for the rotor and transfer arbors, so the usual count is 23. Jewelling the barrel pivots is a bit over the top but some top grade US pocket watches have this. This all applies to lever escapement watches, cylinder escapements found in the cheaper Swiss watches typically have fewer jewels due to the construction and function of the escapement. Exceptions are watches made in Switzerland in the late 19th C for sale in America, these were made to look highly jewelled like top grade US watches but only had jewels where they were visible. Made to deceive. In the 1960s there was a fad for wristwatches with absurd jewel counts, up to 60 or so. These tended to be automatic watches with entirely non functional jewels dotted all over the rotor.[/QUOTE]
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