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<p>[QUOTE="verybrad, post: 191381, member: 37"]This doesn't need a lot. I think if you clean it thoroughly with lacquer thinner first to prepare the surface, you will find it takes a color of its own while wet. If you like that color, all you would need to do is add a finish. I don't know if you want to try and do something with those stains but they will be hard to eliminate completely. I can't tell if this is a solid or veneer top from this picture. If solid, they can be sanded out. If a veneer, you will probably have to live with them. You can try bleaching with oxalic acid but it is usually only partially successful and may damage a veneer.</p><p><br /></p><p>If you want it darker, you can stain it. This probably would have been available in both a golden color or a darker finish. I doubt you will be able to replicate a golden finish exactly at this point without sanding first but the natural color of the wood should be pleasing. For dark finishes on antiques, I really like Minwax Jacobean. It has more red in it than a dark walnut stain but not as much as a mahogany stain. If you don't want any red, use a dark walnut stain. Also, a dark finish could be used to blend around those stains to some extent so may be a factor for you. </p><p><br /></p><p>Once you decide on the color, it is time to add a top finish. I would start with a penetrating finish that will allow you to even out the color if necessary along the way. I like a tung oil varnish for this. There are several commercial products or make your own by mixing equal parts oil-based varnish, mineral spirits, and tung oil. Once the first coat is on (apply thinly with a rag) you will be able to see if you need to even out the color in any areas with stain. Because the finish penetrates, you can still do this at this stage. If you had used a poly or other finish that doesn't penetrate well, you could not do this. Once the color is to your liking, you can add more coats of finish. You can usually recoat with out it thoroughly drying but it should feel pretty dry to the touch. If the wood continues to soak in the finish and look dull, keep coating. This usually takes at least three coats of the oil-varnish mixture to get a good look but may take more. The final coat could eliminate the mineral spirits in the mixture but it is fine to continue with it as-is. Once thoroughly dry, top it off with a furniture paste wax.</p><p><br /></p><p>This is my method to get a good look for antiques. It doesn't necessarily replicate the original finish but you probably don't want this to look new anyway. You should achieve a warm, not too shiny, glow with this method. I am sure that others have different methods than this. Theirs may be equally viable.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="verybrad, post: 191381, member: 37"]This doesn't need a lot. I think if you clean it thoroughly with lacquer thinner first to prepare the surface, you will find it takes a color of its own while wet. If you like that color, all you would need to do is add a finish. I don't know if you want to try and do something with those stains but they will be hard to eliminate completely. I can't tell if this is a solid or veneer top from this picture. If solid, they can be sanded out. If a veneer, you will probably have to live with them. You can try bleaching with oxalic acid but it is usually only partially successful and may damage a veneer. If you want it darker, you can stain it. This probably would have been available in both a golden color or a darker finish. I doubt you will be able to replicate a golden finish exactly at this point without sanding first but the natural color of the wood should be pleasing. For dark finishes on antiques, I really like Minwax Jacobean. It has more red in it than a dark walnut stain but not as much as a mahogany stain. If you don't want any red, use a dark walnut stain. Also, a dark finish could be used to blend around those stains to some extent so may be a factor for you. Once you decide on the color, it is time to add a top finish. I would start with a penetrating finish that will allow you to even out the color if necessary along the way. I like a tung oil varnish for this. There are several commercial products or make your own by mixing equal parts oil-based varnish, mineral spirits, and tung oil. Once the first coat is on (apply thinly with a rag) you will be able to see if you need to even out the color in any areas with stain. Because the finish penetrates, you can still do this at this stage. If you had used a poly or other finish that doesn't penetrate well, you could not do this. Once the color is to your liking, you can add more coats of finish. You can usually recoat with out it thoroughly drying but it should feel pretty dry to the touch. If the wood continues to soak in the finish and look dull, keep coating. This usually takes at least three coats of the oil-varnish mixture to get a good look but may take more. The final coat could eliminate the mineral spirits in the mixture but it is fine to continue with it as-is. Once thoroughly dry, top it off with a furniture paste wax. This is my method to get a good look for antiques. It doesn't necessarily replicate the original finish but you probably don't want this to look new anyway. You should achieve a warm, not too shiny, glow with this method. I am sure that others have different methods than this. Theirs may be equally viable.[/QUOTE]
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