Gold Necklace Hallmark ID

Muff is also a slightly rude word in the UK. So I am giggling.

 

This is the way they were used here, a Dutch slide chain with Swiss watch (not mine):



The slide would be towards the lower end, like in this photo, and could be pushed up a little to suit the size of the lady. But never towards the top, because you wouldn't be able to get your head through the tiny loop.

 

I guess I'd better not ask how you would use a muff chain.
The Dutch word is 'mof', which is also a word sometimes used for Germans (not in polite company).

 

Hi Folks,

Thanks for all the feedback. The conversation has definitely taken some unexpected twists and turns.

As requested, I've provided a better photo of the mark on the clasp. It looks to me like it's identical to the one I showed earlier on the chain. It appears to be a goats head with the number 3 in the left field. I don't see any sign of a star.

I've also included photos of a mark on the ring that connects the clasp with the chain. At first I assumed it was the letter J but on closer inspection I think I may have been looking at it upside down. It might actually be an opening flower of some sort (Tulip?). It's hard to see the "petal" structure from this image but it's more apparent under the microscope.

Chain length is 21 1/4" (54 cm).

Thanks,

Jeremiah

 

Thanks for the extra photos. It is definitely the Austro-Hungarian mark for .750 gold (18k), 1866-1872.

 

Thanks AJ. I hadn't realized it was that old. Can you tell me anything else about the 3-goat head Hallmark? Does it indicate a city of origin? Any thoughts on the J/Tulip mark?

I should clarify that the 54 cm length is for the doubled up chain.

Regarding the watch chain vs. muff chain question, wouldn't a muff chain need a clip of some sort and not a slider?

 

The town where the necklace was assayed would be indicated by a separate mark, a letter in a square or rectangle.

Could be the maker, but I don't have lists of Austro-Hungarian maker's marks.

I agree. It looks like a ladies' watch chain to me.
I know these long slide chains were used for watches in the AH empire just like they were in my part of Continental Europe, The Netherlands. I thought they were used in the rest of the Western world as well, but apparently not.

 

I've not seen British ones that long, certainly. But it makes sense.

 

There are also long Bohemian glass bead watch chains. If you have Sibylle Jargstorf's "Baubles, Buttons and Beads", there is one on page 59, with a photo of a German lady wearing one.

 

So here is a summary of what I now know about this piece:

Description: Ladies watch chain with slider
Origin: Austria-Hungary
Period: 1866 - 1872
Length: 54cm (Doubled up)
Weight: 24.9g
Composition: 18k gold (0.750)

Does this piece have much in the way of collectable value above and beyond it's gold content?

Thanks again,

Jeremiah

 

I'd say so. It's about £800 in scrap, but a quick search shows decent results.

 

These are very popular and you can certainly sell for more than scrap. I sell them in my Etsy shop all the time. I don't have any solid gold ones though. (wish I did!)

 

Absolutely.
If you want to sell it, maybe photograph it with the slide further down, so people can see its purpose?
Below is an antique photo of a couple from my province, both with watch chains. You can see where the (elaborate) slide on the lady's chain is.