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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;mirana, post: 9745282, member: 79705&quot;]For tape removal, I use <a href="https://www.un-du.com/" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.un-du.com/" rel="nofollow">Un-du</a>. It&#039;s what we use on art in framing and it&#039;s acid-free. Always test beforehand, but I&#039;ve never had it leave a mark or mess with inks. I would not use it on the areas with actual art materials like charcoal without a very careful, tiny test. I&#039;ve immersed full prints before to remove dry mount with success. </p><p><br /></p><p>For the tear repair, use <a href="https://www.lineco.com/lineco-hayaku-hinging-tape-gummed.html" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.lineco.com/lineco-hayaku-hinging-tape-gummed.html" rel="nofollow">Hayaku tape</a>. It&#039;s mulberry paper with water activated adhesive and very thin. Acid free and removable with water.</p><p><br /></p><p>If there are any dents, creases, etc. then you would need to take it to a conservationist with a heat table or local framer who has a dry mount press (aka heat table with a press). They can warm it up to loosen fibers, and weigh it down to flatten it. Or you can use flattening methods at home, they may just take forever and may not work.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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