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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Bronwen, post: 683529, member: 5833&quot;]Excellent observations all.&nbsp; I&#039;ll add these two: the printer was not consistent in formatting entries; hyphenated surnames were not that uncommon in France, even before people began to do it as a side effect of women&#039;s lib.&nbsp; Riboulet-Goby has 2 locations, suggesting a firm rather than an individual.&nbsp; Is putting a space either side of the hyphen in Lamant - Julliot but not in Burger-Leveque significant?&nbsp; Or just typographical variation?&nbsp; Lamant does <i>camees</i> (italicized) while Lamant - Julliot&#039;s listing says sur camees (not italicized).</p><p><br /></p><p>Running through my 8 photos of signatures on the backs of shell cameos, only the one I showed you really looks like Lamont, yet you&#039;ll see at least as many cameos described as saying Lamont, perhaps because English speakers are more familiar with Lamont as a surname.&nbsp; I conclude there was no Lamont, only Lamant, and only one of him, unless the one who did the hardstone piece is another one.&nbsp; The shell Lamants I have seen don&#039;t seem like the work done by the same hand as the gent above.</p><p><br /></p><p>Based on the extract of his work provided by bluumz, I wouldn&#039;t trust this Burgess to get anything right.&nbsp; There was no need to revive gem engraving in the early 19th.&nbsp; There are many Georgian hardstone intaglios &amp; intaglios.&nbsp; What did happen is that demand increased.&nbsp; Formerly of interest mainly to male collectors of hardstone intaglios &amp; cameos, Catherine the Great being a notable exception, who vied to find genuinely &#039;antique&#039; ones (we would call them antiquities), the Holy Grail being antique pieces that were signed, they became a fashion item for women, as Burgess correctly notes, popularized by Queen Victoria, the new must-have for any woman who could afford one.&nbsp; The ladies of Napoleon&#039;s court had already gone mad for cameos and seemed to find large ones cut in shell with clearly visible scenes just as appealing as connoisseurs found small stone intaglios you had to squint at to see.</p><p><br /></p><p>Shell, plentiful, inexpensive, easier to cut, allowed for a growth in the number of artisans who could make cameos &amp; to produce them more rapidly.&nbsp; Helmet shell made a great simulant for sardonyx.&nbsp; Demand grew ever greater as more &amp; more people aspired to make that big tour of Europe (Grand Tour properly applies to something else) and more &amp; more had the means to realize their aspiration.&nbsp; The art didn&#039;t need to be revived, it needed to gear up.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://archive.org/details/antiquejewellery00burgrich/page/n8" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://archive.org/details/antiquejewellery00burgrich/page/n8" rel="nofollow">https://archive.org/details/antiquejewellery00burgrich/page/n8</a></p><p><br /></p><p>For Burgess on cameos:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://archive.org/details/antiquejewellery00burgrich/page/n241" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://archive.org/details/antiquejewellery00burgrich/page/n241" rel="nofollow">https://archive.org/details/antiquejewellery00burgrich/page/n241</a></p><p><br /></p><p>No time to read, have to get ready for planetarium.&nbsp; The presence of Gayrard on the list reminded me I have a cameo made after his medal of Galileo, so will have to pin that on somewhere.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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