What’s the best way to restore a wooden surface

Hi I’m looking at buying the original wooden top of a singer sewing machine table but it’s not in the best condition. I assume I would sand it and varnish but is this a bad idea? I worry I’ll be doing the wrong thing. I’m finding it extremely hard finding the original table top so would appreciate any help and advice. Thank you

 

Hi Hayley. I'll tag our sewing machine expert @Shangas for you, he doesn't usually look at the furniture forum.

 

Thank you

 

Hi Haley!

Since you haven't purchased it as yet, and if you're buying to insert your own machine in the empty space where the original was, it's very possible your machine won't fit into that space. Of course you can always fill that space and put another machine on top of that.

 

These were veneer so difficult to refinish when so far gone as this one is. I think I see some missing and raised veneer but hard to tell from this picture.

 

I got measurements but I do know my machine was from 1900 and the table is 1905. Do you think it would not fit then?

 

I did wonder if it was far too gone but didn’t know they were made of veneer. Maybe not worth the risk then. So glad I came on here before getting it.

 

As Brad said the veneer looks warped and cracked in places. It is expensive to replace veneer. If you take it off what is underneath is ugly plywood.
Sanding it will probably break more of the veneer.
Personally, I would pass.

You should measure your machine, maybe even make a pattern of the base.
There are sewing machine tables out there.

 

Does it have to be the original top?
Is the purpose to use the machine?
You could buy a nice piece of wood and make a table top. Or find a cabinet maker who would make one.

 

You should make a template of the bottom of your machine and match it against the one you're thinking of buying.

Years ago, I purchased a sewing machine (in a cabinet) that did not work. I didn't care about that, as I had my own machine and just wanted the cabinet itself for storage of sewing my stuff.
The cabinet looks just like a double bank desk when the machine is tucked inside. Much to my surprise and disappointment, my machine did not fit, but the 8 drawers of the cabinet holds much of my sewing items, so I'm not the least bit sorry for the purchase, but am still disappointed my machine does not fit. I use it regardless by filling the hole, and fit my machine on top of that, but my machine cannot be tucked away like the original could.

The period of the top and your machine are close in age, so it might work for you.

 

Just read that Cluttered had the same template suggestion.

 

I had thought about asking my partner to make me something I just wasn’t sure if it would look right. But I am really put off now knowing its veneer so think I’ll get my partner to make something instead like you suggest

 

I think I’ll get my partner to make something for now just so I can use it and hopefully one day fine one in better condition. Like you said I don’t know my machine would fit in properly either so not worth the risk.

 

AJ is right, I don't normally come in here.

If the tabletop is a SINGER tabletop, then any full-sized Singer machine (201, 66, 27, etc), will fit into it, but not a 3/4 sized one (99, 128, etc). All you gotta do is line up the hinges, drop it in, and screw it down.

If the veneer is shot (and they sometimes are with cabinets like this), then if you can't restore it, I'd just rip it off and either reveneer it, or try and revive the wood underneath.

A friend of mine who restores sewing-machine cabinets rubs them down with linseed oil. If you decide to do this, be extremely careful with how you clean up, afterwards - linseed oil is combustible, and can explode without warning.

 

I have recently tool a class in refinishing furniture. They suggest using Citristrip for removing layers of paint/stain from wood furniture. Citristrip is a mild stripper which often requires several applications but is less harmful to the wood. They do not love sanding as it does often harm the wood - and they especially do not recommend it for veneer as it is often so thin that sanding may render it unusabable. Once you have finished using the stripper, they suggest cleaning the wood with denatured alcohol and 0000 grade steel wool. Use the steel wool with the grain and then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. Note denatured alochol is highly flammable (and evaporates quickly) so treat it accordingly. You may want to go to Utube to find a demonstration