Unidentified Axe Head

Unidentified axe head by Xavier Myers posted Feb 28, 2017 at 12:53 AM

I recently found this while searching around the property I live on. I'm planning on restoring it. I don't have any heavy duty machines for sanding, but I was wondering if there were any way to give it a shine by hand somehow. I plan on giving it a vinegar bath tomorrow. I have also purchased some sandpaper I might be able to put to use. Also if anyone can tell me how old it is or who the manufacturer was would be great. It has no marks that I can see.

 

I wouldn't want shiny. I'd soak in Coca Cola or Naval Jelly first to kill the rust.

 

I'm using a product called "A Must for Rust" liquid, which is based on H2PO4, like Nav Jelly, but this stuff is easier to use. A lot of people seem to like it, looking at reviews.

 

It is impossible to date this ax from the photo (possibly even in person) because people can make anything they want, if someone decided to hand forge a 18th century style ax head and threw it in their yard for 50 years it might look like a 18th century ax head. So what I will say is that it appears to be mid 19th century to early 20th century style and the amount of rotting on the wood handle suggests it has not been in the ground terribly long. The most helpful signs to identify this type of item are a manufacturer mark or the history of the land on which it was found. I actually found what appears to be a 18th century hand forged ax head metal detecting yesterday (I might post some photos of it). I already did my homework on ax heads, so if anyone would like me to explain my reasoning for my estimated date just ask. I hope I have been helpful.

 

Welcome!

 

Thanks!

 

Th property was originally homestead property

 

A-Hah! I thought so! I learned all about the homestead ax in school and now I finally have a use for alla dat informashun!

 

That axehead will clean up just fine by hand. Sand it just enough to break loose the reddish rust blisters, and then use a (hand) wire brush. Just use your sheet sandpaper in your hand. Leather gloves help. Being outside with a nice breeze is good too. When you've brushed all the loose stuff off, lightly sand it again and brush again. Repeat until you're satisfied with the surface.

It looks like a 20th century axe to me, perhaps a bit earlier. I suspect you'll find a makers mark which will help date it. First place to look is right under the hammer poll on the cheek (side.) Then check the cheeks outside the eye. Occasionally they are marked way down the cheek near the bit. The mark may be weak or partial. The manufacturer can make a huge difference in the value.

It looks like it is in good overall condition and is worth cleaning up. Could be a $20 Plumb, or a $1000 Lincoln. Good Luck.

 

Here is the mark I found after cleaning it a bit. Does it look familiar?

 

Might say "UNION"

 

You can't tell from the photo. But it looks like it has two v's after the letters. One on top of the other.

 

Axe head by Xavier Myers posted Mar 1, 2017 at 7:27 PM

What is the black part, and can I sand it? Can I sharpen it? Can I make it darker? I also found some hand carved letters. "Hatha...ive"

 

Where's Steersman, he knows about this.

My WAG: Dark area on cutting end could be case-hardening; An ax could be made of low-carbon steel if the cutting end were case-hardened to add carbon to the surface after sharpening. First re-sharpening would remove hardened metal from blade leaving an easily-dulled edge. Remember, WAG not fact.

 

We're entering territory where it's difficult to say some things without having the axe in hand.

My best guess is that it was made by Kelly, although others used the "UNION" imprint. Late 19th to the first half of the 20th century.

The dark areas near the poll look like pitting. Nothing can be done about it. The steel is just gone. (If it's not pitting, it's probably more oxide blistering, in which case more sanding/brushing will remove it.)

The darker bit indicates that it was probably made with the 'overcoat' method. In this method, a bit of high-carbon steel was welded to the somewhat softer body of the axehead. It is hard all the way through and may be sharpened. You may be able to see the weld on the top and bottom edges. The edge profile looks pretty good, so hand-honing with a stone should do it. (Powered grindstones are to be avoided.) To correct an edge profile, gentle hand-filing is OK. The edge depends on what you plan to do with it. Sharper for hewing, blunter for splitting.

The cleaned axe shows slight 'phantom bevels' on the cheeks. These were supposed to reduce friction. (Patented by W.C. Kelly in 1889.) They generally fell out of use, in favor of the tapered or concave cheeks, although you see them occasionally on later axes.

One other place is sometimes marked. There may be a forge or foundry mark on the bottom edge, just forward of the eye. It'll be a tiny symbol or number, and indicates which forge made it.

There is an amazing variety of axes. The country was pretty well cleared with them. (Saws were very expensive before the last half of the 19th century.) You find them worn/sharpened down to nubbins sometimes. 100-year old catalogs often have 20 or more pages of axes. I'd guess it was probably the most important tool a pioneer or settler owned.

 

Anyway if finished my work with the head of the axe. someone suggested that the black blade was where a leather protective cover was that rotted. I sanded it all a couple days ago because i got no response. I hope i didn't damage anything because of it. Ill post some pictures soon.

 

Axe by Xavier Myers posted Mar 3, 2017 at 4:21 PM

Union Axe by Xavier Myers posted Mar 3, 2017 at 4:13 PM

Axe head by Xavier Myers posted Mar 3, 2017 at 4:09 PM

All the final images. Until I start working on a new homemade handle.