Featured Missing clasp on a Chinese export filligree bracelet

Hello again everyone! I have an issue. I've got a Chinese export bracelet that's been sadly idling in my jewellery box for some time for no other reason than that it's missing the closure system. I grabbed it for around £30 in a bundle with 4 other antique pieces, so it was a total steal in my book. I knew that I wanted to keep and repair it, so I went to my local jeweller who said that "it's not worth repairing it", as well as she could create a clasp for around £50-60. I previously went to another jeweller and I've been advised that, because this piece is not made from solid gold or silver, not many jewellers would work with it. My question is, would £50-60 be the standard price for a closure system for a piece of this type? Or would I be overpaying? I would be grateful for any input.

 

It just needs the tongue (male) side of the clasp, but most, if any, jewellers do not work in brass. What metal would be used by the jeweller who gave you a quote?

 

Hi Bronwen, I believe silver but I'm not sure. The bracelet might be silver, possibly vermeil, after researching on the Internet similar models. I asked if she could craft the mechanism in silver then plate it with gold.

 

Probably just something I'd do, but I'd be tempted to carefully stitch the bracelet onto a black velvet ribbon slightly wider than the bracelet, leaving the ends of the ribbon long so they can be tied in a bow. I'm assuming it's possible to work thread carefully through the filigree. Then I'd wear it a couple of times and, if I really loved looking at it on my arm, then I'd pay for the clasp to be made for it.

 

This is quite an interesting idea! I might give it a try and see how I feel about splurging to repair it. ☺️ Thanks for the suggestion, Lapin!

 

It looks like classic 1950s - to early 60s costume from here.The push-in clasp was likely brass.

 

It is a lovely bracelet, but am I the only one who thinks this is actually a Czech bracelet? @Ownedbybear , @KSW ?

The cabs are Czech glass, and the marcasites, punched openwork backs (not filigree) and repoussé elements on the front don't strike me as Chinese.
There are Chinese bracelets with similarly shaped panels, but afaik those have mesh or flat backs and intricate filigree and cannetille on the front. They are generally set with real stones.

That is a costly process. It won't be as expensive to work with a ready made and ready plated clasp. But first you need to establish what the bracelet is made of.

 

Concur! Of course!

 

Wow, and I thought it was dating around the 1920's. The bracelet was tested by a jeweller but they haven't told me the material contents, only that it wasn't solid gold or silver.

 

I also thought this piece looks awfully similar to a Czech design! On my newbie eye, Chinese and Czech designs share some similarities, which I actually find surprising, seeing as these two countries are so far away from each other, from a geographical standpoint. The stone is a peking glass, isn't it?

I understand, it makes sense to check the exact materials first before working on it. I guess I'll have to test it again and see the metal contents. Many thanks AJ!

 

You are right, there are some similarities.
Ever since the second half of the 19th century the Bohemians showed an interest in Chinese glass making, specifically Peking glass. Ca 1900 they also looked at East Asian design in a broader sense.
In the Art Deco period Chinese motifs became one of the main influences of the jewellery makers of the Bohemian/Czech town of Gablonz (now Jablonec). Another important influence was Ancient Egyptian design, which we know as (another) Egyptian Revival in design.

No, it isn't what is known as Peking glass. I can never remember the name, but believe it is called dragon's egg glass.

It looks like brass, probably gilded.
If you ever go to Czechoslovakia, take it with you. Maybe someone in Jablonec can repair it for you, they have the right bits and bobs and are used to handling Czech jewellery.

 

Very interesting. I knew that Czech jewellery designs were influenced by Egyptian ones, but I had no clue that Chinese motifs also inspired the Czechs. In my country Romania, we call "gablonz" a piece of costume jewellery, which is usually seen as without significant value. I think this word has lost its meaning in this country.

I tried looking it up online but egg shaped gemstones come up instead. I love this stone, is it natural? At fist I thought it was turquoise but later I started thinking it was probably glass.

Edit: I only read "dragon's egg" and not glass as well. Here lies the answer to my question, it's glass.

That's a great tip, I know a Czech so I'm tempted to ask for them to take my bracelet to a jeweller in there. You are a trove of knowledge AJ! I appreciate all the information that you are sharing with us.

 

Understandable, Central and Eastern Europe were important markets for Czech jewellery during the Communist era. And if nearly all costume jewellery is from Gablonz, the name becomes a generic name.

Yes, it is Czech glass, also made in Gablonz/Jablonec.
It was also exported to the Middle East, so you can come across, for instance, Palestinian bracelets with these same glass cabochons.

I didn't remember exactly where you were, but I knew you were European, so not that far from the source.

 

I absolutely agree on Czech. The ribbon idea is excellent.

 

Following on the ribbon mount idea, it could be mounted on black velvet ribbon of appropriate length as a choker length necklace. Snaps or hook & eye for closure.

 

That would be my choice, rather than a ribbon bracelet. It would look great.

 

Thirded. Getting it fixed would require someone who can laser weld, and that isn't cheap.

I'd call this stone a borderline simulated turquoise. Dragon's egg stones are only two colors, not three, and as far as I know always opaque. It's close enough for auction estimates though.