Lace lesson #7 - Valenciennes

I'll try to make this a quick comparison without getting into a fine point discussion.

Valenciennes (Val) lace by definition is a French bobbin lace, originating in the town of Valenciennes. Becoming a known, named lace by 1705 and continuing through the late 1800's. By the mid-1800's, of course, machines were making their way into the lace industry and by 1900; the handmade Val lace industry (along with others) was all but gone.

Valenciennes, by definition, is a very fine, fairly narrow lace. It is usually made in yardage on a pillow that allows the pattern ends to connect, linking design elements and allowing the worker to continue working yardage. It is considered a "whole" lace. Meaning it is not made in pieces. It also means that threads run the entire length of the yardage; without being cut out and added back in.

The photo below is handmade Valenciennes. It measures 2 1/2" wide. Circa early 1800's.


When trying to determine if a lace is Valenciennes; there are several things that define it:

1. Valenciennes does not have a heavy outline/gimp or cordonnet thread.
2. Valenciennes design elements are usually outlined with another pair of threads which are spaced just past the edge of the design element (ie: flowers).
3. The pattern is generally composed of a dainty, repetitive floral design.
4. Valenciennes often has a small design element repeated in the mesh or ground area. These can be small dots, small flowers or leaves.
5. Valenciennes can be made as an insertion yardage, where as it has two footing - or straight edges.
6. Valenciennes can be made as an edging, where as it has one footing or straight edge and one fancy edge.
7. The fancy edge may be "barely scalloped" or it may have more of a gentle scallop. Because the nature of most Val lace is fairly narrow and fine; it doesn't allow for a deep scallop.
8. Valenciennes lace has a relatively simple square ground, net or mesh - worked with a 4 thread crossing.
9. Valenciennes has tiny picots along the fancy edge.

Because Valenciennes is a fine, dainty, and narrow floral design lace, over the centuries it has become widely associated with lingerie, petticoats, camisoles, nightgowns, nightcaps and frilly bits. Sometimes insertion and edging Valenciennes yardage was sewn together to make the design wider. I've only seen this in relation to machine Valenciennes.

Machine made Valciennes looks very similar. It usually has the little outline thread. The simple square grid/ground/mesh looks the same. This example has a gentle scallop edge, and a straight edge. But, follow your thread paths to determine if the stitches are really "woven" or done by a machine. When you are examining your own pieces - be sure to examine with magnification.

Of course, if you have any questions; please feel free to ask.
Leslie