Featured K&L earrings help please

Discussion in 'Jewelry' started by crazycatlady, Jul 31, 2022.

  1. crazycatlady

    crazycatlady Well-Known Member

    These were in my job lot, all of the K&L jewellery I've had before is usually clearly stamped with what it's made of, usually 14ct RG. These just have K&L Germany, and I'm not sure how to list them.

    I thought K&L only made silver, gold and RG jewellery, is that correct? No idea what the little marks are on the top of the hooks. I can see little green bits along the joins in the hooks through my loupe which suggests they are RG, just wondering why they're not marked as such.

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  2. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    Lovely, and classic Kordes & Lichtenfels, a good name.
    As far as I know they made silver, gold and AD jewellery and findings.
    AD (also AMD or Amerik) is short for Amerikaner Doublé, which is thinly gold plated in a gold bath.
    If I am correct, rolled gold is bonded gold under pressure, not plated. I hope I got this right.;)
    The name 'Amerikaner' is confusing. Gold plating as such is ancient, but the thin Amerikaner Doublé is an Austrian invention. It became hugely popular in the US after the Civil War, when it was difficult and extremely expensive to find gold for jewellery, hence the name.

    Since the German lands had similar problems during and after several wars, gold plating was very important in German jewellery.
    They devised a system of classifications for different thicknesses of gold plating.
    Since we can all come across German jewellery, here are the German gold plating terms and the millessimal quantity of gold used:

    Amerikaner Doublé (AD, AMD, Amerik) 10/000 tot 20/000
    Charnier Doublé 20/000 tot 25/000
    Union Doublé 40/000 tot 20/000
    They are marked, and it looks like a partial AD to me, for Amerikaner Doublé, 10/000 tot 20/000.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2022
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  3. Ownedbybear

    Ownedbybear Well-Known Member

    Yup, rolled gold is multiple bonded layers. Bit like Old Sheffield Plate.
     
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  4. crazycatlady

    crazycatlady Well-Known Member

    Thank you @Any Jewelry that is very helpful, I shall list them as gold plated :)
     
  5. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    I just realized that there is a German jewellery mark that can be mixed up with the AD (Amerikaner Doublé) mark.
    It is A*D, the mark of Andreas Daub, also a big name in German jewellery. The Daub mark is always with a star.:)
     
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  6. Aquitaine

    Aquitaine Is What It IS! But NEVER BORED!

    AND if you look carefully, there IS a STAR.....hoping for you, it's the correct STAR!!!

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  7. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    I think it is just a 'thingy', not a star.;)
    Anyway, the Andreas Daub star is in between the A and the D. So only this: A*D, is the Andreas Daub mark. If it is just a random star, it is not A*D.:)
     
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  8. Aquitaine

    Aquitaine Is What It IS! But NEVER BORED!

    It's definitely a star, but not like an asterisk in between anything, so thanks for the clarification, @Any Jewelry and sorry it's not the right one!!
     
    KSW, crazycatlady and Any Jewelry like this.
  9. crazycatlady

    crazycatlady Well-Known Member

    I think it must be a reflection as I can't see a star on the earrings. Thank you for hoping though!
     
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