Featured Exam Time: 6 Brooches Correctly ID'd?

I put my research skills to the test this weekend after finding six vintage costume brooches at the local vide grenier. Rather than asking a bunch of questions as per usual, I'm wondering if I could get any feedback and corrections on my conclusions!

First up, these two AB brooches. I bought them thinking AB dated earlier (30s/40s), but after research I see that's not the case.

Wheat stalk/corn flower/hyacinth brooch
6.5cm long, 4.5cm wide. AB and Smokey quartz rhinestones. Really nicely made but no marks to speak of. The trombone clasp dates this in the early period of AB popularity, 1955-1960.




Geometric lapel brooch
5.5cm long. AB rhinestones. Purchased under the impression its again 30s/40s. This one is harder to date for me. The clasp is saying pre-1955 but the stones can't be. The stones look very good but the back is in bad shape. I'm leaning towards early 60s for this one, but I'm really not sure.



Umbrella Brooch
5.5 cm long. Brass open parasol with red rhinestone and trombone clasp. I want to say Edwardian/1910s, but this doesn't really match the style of that era. I see some Middle Eastern/Orient influences in the color combo and detailing, so perhaps actually dates to 20s/30s? I can't find a single example of anything like mine, so that's interesting. I could see this being dated anywhere from 1910-1940.





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Dancing Cranes brooch

7.5cm long, no marks. I originally purchased this without much hope of a score, but was curious to learn if the clasp had been replaced or not. Overall, the color combination of the navy and gold said 70s or 80s, perhaps for the older generation (ie, my grandma who was in her 40s at the time). HOWEVER: research has led me to identical brooches from the art nouveau period, but that only brings up a lot more questions. I can't find any brooch with the stone, but if you look at the back of mine you can see the birds' beaks underneath, almost like it was added on later. But the color of the metal is the same, so was this a custom order in the art nouveau period or was this added on later? Does this mean its a reproduction/later revival piece? I found a yellow metal one on worth point that has the same length and placement of the pin, but with a trombone clasp. Other examples have my rollover clasp, but have much longer pins and different placement. Does this mean I was correct about the clasp having been replaced? The amount of grey/damage/gunk around both ends suggests this, but again the metal color is the same and has only worn down to silver over time. All examples online are dated to the Art Nouveau period. There's no one maker either, some are gold, some are metal, some are silver rather than yellow.

I see two scenarios here:
This is a genuine AN piece that predates the clasp, which is a replacement. The stone may have been original or added at the same time as the clasp.

This is a reproduction piece, either in the 30s (mainstream use of the rollover clasp and a tendency toward the natural world in jewelry in the last half of the decade), or sometime much later and my initial thoughts of 70s or 80s is correct.

Links to a couple examples I found:
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/antique-art-nouveau-crane-heron-1862435603
https://www.etsy.com/fr/listing/487610507/broche-de-grue-art-nouveau



Faux pearl pin with loop safety pin clasp
4cm long. I've found a couple on ebay listed as vaguely 'vintage'. The pearls are looking worse for wear and are not quality. Apparently you can get modern antiqued ones so I'm not sure this has any age to it at all. I can find no resources on original pieces so I'm at a loss. I bought it to learn about the clasp so wasn't all that disappointed!


Garnet rhinestone and faux seed pearl brooch
A specific date has eluded me on this one. I think its Victorian revival but I don't know if its 30s or 70/80s. I am wondering if it is (or was) gold plated, the gold that's not worn away has that shade that is not on my other gold tone pieces.. Its very nicely done and in great condition minus the wear, except theres that chunk of metal on the right top edge. The clasp is a rollover, but looks more like a prototype or early version of what we're used to seeing today, so this points to a 1925-40 revival.


I'm actually quite chuffed with these, paid less than 10 euros for all of them. The two ABs were at different stalls. The AB in particular were a beast to photograph so the colors having quite come out as vibrant as they are. Thanks very much for looking, I can send over more photos if desired, and I hope you like them!

So how did I do? ​

 

To me, the pearl one looks like beads strung on a diaper pin.

 

I'm interested in seeing replies, although not much help in dating them. Love the umbrella, and the cranes. And less than 10 euros for all of them sounds like a great price to me!

 

AB (Aurora Borealis) coating which appears to definitely be on the second one, and possibly the first pin, was invented in 1956, so that gives a starting point. I could see both of those being 1950s or 1960s.

I would guess that the crane pin is older, but I don't really look at clasps so much, so wait for others. The crane is my favorite. Nice lot for 10 Euros!

 

JMHO...

Correct on AB rhinestone pieces, AB was invented mid 1950s by Swarovski (first used on beads) and was widely used from then through the 60s and beyond. The back of #2 doesn't look that bad, take a Sunshine cloth to it and it should clean up a bit.

A warning, do not wash rhinestone jewelry, the moisture will damage the foil backing and over time they will turn dull and blackish. If you need to clean the fronts use a very soft toothbrush, dip it in alcohol, shake the excess off and brush the stones. Have a hair dryer standing by and immediately blow it dry. Make sure you use a very soft brush, the AB is a surface coating and can scratch easily.

My hunch on the cranes is AN revival. The clasp doesn't look like a replacement to me. Again, JMHO

 

Excellent tips on cleaning, Marie.

This thread can be a learning tool for all of us. With jewelry I've not been one to look at clasps over the years, more just buying from the feel of something. Sounds like the existing clasp on the Crane pin indicates (if clasp is original to the piece) it cannot be from the Art Nouveau period? Am I understanding that clasp ID correctly? Learning here, too!

 

I will also be following with interest! Very educational thread

 

Interesting! That's certainly one way to upcycle

 

Honestly I think the umbrella is my favorite! Its so interesting, the brass is such a nice contrast to the stone.

 

Thanks for the feedback! Glad to know I'm barking up the right tree haha.

I don't have a sunshine cloth, but I shall definitely try and get one when I can. It'll come in very handy if I do more of this! And thanks for the tip on cleaning rhinestones, I did go over them all with a midly damp cloth but thats it. I'll be very careful about moisture in future!

Good shout on the cranes, I did just look up when a AN revival was hilarious and 60s seems to be a fit for this piece! Or does it?

 

Thats what it seems to point to! The rollback like this wasn't invented until the 20s, and wasn't mass produced until the 30s. Genuine Art Nouveau should have a c clasp or trombone..probably also something else I'm missing as well.

 

Safety pin closure? Looks like one anyway. They turn up on older pieces sometimes, WWI-ish. I think. None of these look that old except the umbrella.

 

Nice finds Rachel & you just taught me a new term:
What is the difference between Vide Grenier and Brocante?
'Brocante' means treasures – a Flea Market
'Vide Grenier' –Annual village or town sales. Literally means 'attic sale'.
P.S.-You should be very 'chuffed' with your finds for 10 Euros !
I'd prob have spent $50 in gas & $100 out of pocket here.Going to be checking the upcoming Vide Grenier calendar for 2024.

 

Thanks for your feedback Eve! Which pin are you referring to?
Whats your opinion on the umbrella? I can't seem to find anything like it but perhaps I'm using the wrong search terms?

 

Yes indeed! The vendors who go to brocantes also sometimes go to vide greniers, so they're good places to get a mix of both! Admittedly I found all these at vendor stalls, but the non AB ones were all in a jumbled box of jewelry for 1e each! You might find a few bargains at vide greniers in the areas you're going to, some of the big old houses and their keepers have things no one remembers so out they go for a couple of euros.

 

Those safety pin brooches were very popular in the 80s, as a reference to Punk safety pins. This looks like one of those.

The pin type is the same as kilt pins.
I wouldn't like to use them on a diaper, not safe.

 

I wasn't, actually, referring to yours. The safety pin catch I was thinking of turns up on European (mostly) brooches around 1910. Safety pin/kilt pins were more of an 80s thing. Safety pin clasps made of real safety pins also turn up on Russian-style paper mache pieces.

The umbrella I haven't a clue how to research. I can tell it's old, but have no idea who made it or where.

 

Oh yes I see! Interesting, good to know. I think I have one of those paper mache pieces just like it actually lol.

Yeah its very ambiguous. Still my favorite and I don't think it'll be one I move on any time soon. Who knows, perhaps something will turn up about it!

Its funny, I have a pretty good collection of brooches going now and its the one piece of jewelry I never ever wear

 

I have some of those too - bought as trophies, but not my style.