Featured French bronze mantel clock

So how do I remove the bell to see if anything is back there? I looked at it yesterday and didn’t really see anything to unscrew

 

Hi

Removing the bell is usually very easy. Just turn the securing nut anti-clockwise and the bell should come off easily. It's possible that once removed, you'll be able to see a maker's name on the brass plate. Don't be too upset though if there isn't a signature - a lot of these are anon.

Putting the bell back on just involves reversing the procedure.

 

Ok so I am gonna turn this thing??? How can that even turn? This doesn’t look like a nut, maybe I just pull??

 

Ok, so I got it off and it’s...... BLANK!! Just my luck!!

 

There is a "J"

 

Yes, we knew about the J but was hoping to find a mark behind the bell when removed but nothing was there

 

Hi again.

Don't worry, there is nothing "wrong" with there being no signature. Some makers didn't because they left the plate blank for a retailer to inscribe their own name but this wasn't always done so a lot are blank. Some makers made parts for retailers and sort of "pseudo-makers" to assemble and fit into the case, so sometimes the case or dial is signed not the movement.

You can never assume that the name on a dial is the name of the maker. Sometimes it is but more often it isn't. Sometimes the bronze figure is signed or more commonly carries a foundry stamp underneath or inside - same for the cases.

This movement is completely genuine and right for the period around 1840 or so - maybe a tad earlier or later but in value terms it doesn't matter.

By around 1850-70, the vast majority of these French movements were being mass produced by people like Japy Freres. They sort of converge onto a very standard template design with only minor differences between the main makers - in fact Japy made pieces and movements for some of the other makers who then just put their own name on them. When you look at later 19C movements by people like Japy, Marti Vincenti and Mougin, they all look more or less the same apart from whether or not they use a locking plate/count wheel.

Sorry, I'm rambling....The point is, your movement was clearly made a little before that near uniformity of design was in place. It's "getting there" and has the basic structure but still has some slight differences. That's how you can date it (roughly) and that'll appeal a little more to buyers than a standard slightly later Japy one would.

Even so, that's all for interest and it won't affect an auction house's valuation much. A known signature might have (like one of the big Paris retailers) but c'est la vie. What will sell your clock is its external appearance and the quality of the case and figure on top. The glass dome will add value too - people like those. A BIG factor is whether it's working correctly too - buyers generally don't like clocks that aren't fully working and they end up being purchased by restorers and dealers.

Again, best of luck with your sale.

 

Sorry, I should have said "around 1840s" not specifically "1840"

 

Well guess I gotta wind her up and see if she works!! My mom did wind it often but over the last couple years not so much.

 

If it hasn't been used for some time, don't worry if it won't go to begin with. A lot of oil and gunk (there shouldn't really be any but it's very common to find movements that have been hugely over-oiled over the years and all that can go sticky over time) can congeal. It make take quite a few gentle movements of the pendulum to get it running again.

You can check the striking mechanism by simply gently advancing the hands. The clock should strike once at half-past and then the hours when the minute hand reaches 12.

These movements are very robust and are a tribute to the guys that designed and made them. Our electronic gadgets today last about three years - how many machines that we build will still be running in 150-300 years time like many of these clocks?

Even so, don't fret if it doesn't work. Firstly, statistically it's most likely to be just cleaning that's required. Secondly, most auctioneers won't perform an in-depth inspection and they won't guarantee for bidders that it is working - they're usually too scared of being sued.

If you're trying to sell privately though, being able to say "working" will add a fair bit to the value.