Featured Help please-reinforced Battenburg tape lace

Hello everyone,
I am new to the forum and would so appreciate any help you can give!
This is a tablecloth passed down from my Great Grandmother (1892-1981). I believe it was made by her. I am trying to get as much info about it as I can so I can begin the mending process. I have disassembled and soaked/air dried it in hope of attaching it to an alb.
Help includes:
-size & color of thread
-tips on lightening (washing care) and smoothing by ironing
-removing loops that formed in the reinforced tape

I tried my best to gather a few lower quality photos that were small enough to attach.
Thank you!

 

@Northern Lights Lodge
Tagging for you.

 

And WELCOME to ANTIQUERS, @Lisa A !!! Is there any way you can lay the tablecloth out so we all can get a better look at it!!! From what I can see, it looks like it's round? I've taken the liberty, while we wait for @Northern Lights Lodge to check in, which could be tomorrow, to sharpen a bit, and slightly enlarge a couple of your images for others......it looks like a lovely piece!!!

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Also, if you post EACH IMAGE INDIVIDUALLY, EACH ONE CAN be UP TO 1 MB, but by putting them all together as one image you're holding yourself to "many images" as 1 MB......just a little "FYI" which you will pick up as you get used to it!!!!!

 

Thank you. My photos are a very high quality so I have tried to reduce them. Yes, it is circular. The close up photo with the lace pinned to linen shows a bit more that it is not quite white.]

 

I am afraid that some of the problems I am seeing may have been caused by your initial washing and drying procedure. I think lace needs to be straightened and pinned out during drying, keeping it under slight tension in order to prevent uneven movement of the threads.

Another precaution is to lay another dry cloth or light towel on top of the lace as it is drying, trying to make good contact between the two. As fibers age over time, degredation products are formed within the fibers. Washing can partially dissolve and mobilize these compounds. As moisture evaporates during the drying process, the degredation products can be drawn to the surface creating brown stains on the fibers. If you lay a dry cloth on top, the moisture and stains can be drawn up into the second cloth (it becomes the new evaporation surface), leaving less staining on the original fabric.

These recommendations are based on my experience washing other kinds of historic textiles. Members more familiar specifically with lace will undoubtedly have additional advice.

 

Welcome to Antiquers, @Lisa A ! Not my area of expertise, but just wanted to welcome you.

 

Hi Lisa! Welcome! Wow! What a fun piece!
Thanks @Aquitaine for your work on photos!

The years your Grandmother was alive are perfect and right in line with popularity of making pieces such as this. It is truly something that she may have worked. And it appears to be very nicely worked!

Yes, it is Battenburg/Battenberg. Patterns were drawn or purchased pre-printed on fabric. The lace was /is constructed by purchasing various decorative tapes and sometimes "rings". The tapes were basted to the design and then decorative fillings were made to connect the tapes and rings.

Because the tapes and rings were almost always purchased; it would be more appropriate to call this a "hand assembled" lace.

Your piece has all those elements.

It was almost certainly made of cotton. Are there any areas of any size which are damaged? Or just a few broken connecting bars? Or are you just needing to attach it to the new fabric?

As for the "loops". I'm not sure how they would have occurred. I would NOT recommend cutting them out. I have 3 suggestions: *1. would be to find a very fine appropriate color thread and carefully pull them to the back side (perhaps with a crochet hook) and double them along the backside center of the tape and tack them tightly to the back as invisibly as possible. *2. is once you have it all laid out and are trying to flatten the piece; you might try taking tweezers and gently tweeking/coaxing the cord back along the tape - scooching it down the center of the tape where it lays. It may help the tape lay flatter if the loops occurred by accidental snagging. *3. if you can find the "end" of the loop cord (on the back side) and it isn't too far from the loop, you may be able to carefully scooch it back into place and tack the loose end of the loop cord. (By the way that heavy cord is called the "cordonette".)

@2manybooks may be right about possible damage already incurred by previous washing. I don't know that it is necessary to actually wash it again; but perhaps a spray bottle of distilled water to saturate the fibers would be helpful in trying to straighten it; but depending on how well you washed and rinsed it, it could also cause additional discoloration as @2manybooks noted. Since it is probably cotton, it will have the tendency to shrink and putting too much tension on pins to stretch it could cause more thread damage.

Finding the exact size and color of the thread is not an easy task. Many thread sizes/twists/etc. are discontinued and over time the color is usually not a match. I would personally not recommend trying to make the lace the same color as the fabric; it would probably work better to find fabric the same color as the lace....or at least something comfortably close and then match attachment thread to either the lace or the fabric.

It looks as if you may have a piece of linen already chosen. Although they are not an exact match; unless you wish to hunt/purchase another piece or try to match the lace color - I personally think that the two are compatible. I would, however, make sure that the fabric is prewashed before attachment.

As for ironing. I would NOT iron directly on the lace. Too easy for the point of the iron to get caught and do more damage. Just distilled steam or possibly a damp cloth between the lace an the iron with a not too hot iron.

Well, good luck! We'd all love to see the finished product and if you have any additional questions; I know someone will chime in!

Cheerio,
Leslie

 

Thank you both for the valuable information! I will try to answer your questions...

-There are places where there are broken stitches, particularly the wheel stitches
-Overall there are not many yellowed areas but the whole is not as white as I would like
- My main concern is softening up the lace and smoothing it out, along with reducing the "loops" of the cordonette.
-It is difficult to find a thread match in order to replace the broken stitches. I found a close thickness, but may have to use a coffee bath (?) to slightly yellow it. It is noticeably whiter.

ToDo:
I will attempt to dampen a section of the lace by spraying distilled water on it and using an iron on top of a piece of fabric. While the lace is warm and moist I will do my best to gently stretch it out. Then I can begin the mending process. I found Nellie Clark Brown's book so I hope I can figure it out!

My plan is to sew it onto a religious alb. The alb is quite white (already laundered and ironed) and I don't want to alter its color. In order not to sew it directly onto the white alb, the plan is to sew it to a black lightweight fabric in order for the lace to stand out (a black cassock will be worn underneath). I am afraid for the lace not to have a backing since it is so fragile(see mock-up photo). In fact, I am hoping to be able to make the lace/black fabric section to have the ability to be snapped off so the rest of the alb can be laundered on its own. I believe it will have to be tacked down and not completely sewn because of the need for a rippling effect. However, I don't quite know how to handle this because at least the bottom where the lace will rub shoes will become dirty and every once and awhile need cleaned. Then I am afraid to run into the same problem of the lace retracting. Please comment
To complicate matters, I am planning to do the same to the sleeves, although that section will most likely need to be black on the wrists and white up the forearm. (See photo)
This sure has been a learning opportunity and I appreciate all of your help!
Lisa

 

Could you extend the black fabric for a few inches below the lace, to act as a "dust ruffle" - perhaps a separate piece that could be removed and laundered as needed?

 

Well, I see what you are planning. Ultimately, I think you are planning something difficult... possible...but difficult. I worked in the Bridal industry for over a decade and we saw ALL sorts of alterations... changing gowns, altering old to update and whatnot... so I'm coming to you not only as a professional lacemaker - but also as a seamstress.

My suggestions... if coffee doesn't do the trick try tea. And I'd try a length of thread in each bath to see what you think works better. In those sample tests you can try strengths, timing and tweek the dye batch with other things that may change the color a little like "grape juice".

As for strengthening the lace. You probably could back it with tulle. I mean bridal tulle - not tutu netting. I don't think it would show but it would take some work to baste it around everything. By putting a fine netting behind it; it should stop accidental hooking a toe in the lace, it also would add strength to the lace and take some of the stress off the lace fibers. You probably could even use several layers. It also would give you a way to make some small mends (by tacking/basting) weak areas of the lace to the tulle. They also make a lovely, very, very fine cotton mesh. I have purchased it through Yoder's... spendy, but worth it. To do this I'd lay the lace flat and back it with the tulle... round shape. No need to hem the tulle - it doesn't ravel. If you use the cotton tulle - I don't think you'd need the black fabric; as the cotton tulle is fairly substantial.

And will the lace fullness on the sleeves - which lays back toward the elbow "fall" over the hand when being worn? Or are you planning on tacking the "top of the scallop" to the sleeve fullness? Just food for thought.

As for backing the lace in black fabric: I'd be sure it is very well washed and won't bleed if you are going to use it as a somewhat permanently attached "dust ruffle /back splash" (for lack of a better words).

Apparently, you do desire this entire garment to fall to floor length, which is why you are wanting to back it with black fabric... so it will be protected.

I am curious (as it isn't clear in the photos) ... does the fullness of the hem of the alb; match the fullness in the very top edge of the lace. It "looks" like there is more fullness in the alb; in which case I think you will get a draping effect with the lace (as the lace looks quite heavy) instead of it laying flat at the upper hem of the lace. I understand that the bottom of the lace is much fuller as it was "round" in it's previous life.... so if you are going to use snaps to attach the black backed lace; and perhaps this is what you intend; you may have gapping.

Am I seeing that the top edge of the lace is slightly scalloped? Hmm...if so, hard not to have it gap...

IF, the bottom hem edge of the alb and the top edge of the lace "match" in fullness. I honestly think that it would be easier to hand baste the fabric backed lace to the hem of the alb. From the back side you could use a different light color "more substantial" thread and just catch the black fabric/lace from the back and take the next stitch about an 1" from the previous one. It then would be quite easy to remove and replace after laundering.

Will the black backing be cotton? Are you planning on laying the circular lace on the piece of black fabric and just attaching the top hem of the lace to the fabric, then cutting the hem of the black to match the length of the lace - OR are you making a straight "curtain" of black fabric (guestimate of 15" x 60" rectangular strip) and just attaching to the top hem of the lace? The reason I ask, again, has to do with how the lace will drape over the black. I feel that it will lay and "move" better if the black backing matches the shape of the lace. I think in both instances, I'd use a very lightweight cotton, more like batiste which will drape well and be lighter in weight.

Another suggestion. The above info re: snaps or basting the lace to the hem of the alb refers to lace attachment to the OUTSIDE of the alb. Is that what you are planning?

An alternate suggestion may be to attach it to the inside hem of the alb. I don't know if that would create more issues or less; but again, perhaps food for thought. It may give you an opportunity to avoid "gapping" and be able to move the lace "up" a little to match the fullness of the alb?

I dare say that none of this is a "have it done in a few hours" task. But, I think it is possible with some planning and forethought. Since it is in your lap, you ultimately know what you wish to accomplish and how you want it to look finished! I'm sure that your Grandmother would be pleased to see her work used in such a special manner for it's "next life".

Good luck and of course, we'd all love to see your progress...
Cheerio,
Leslie

 

Sounds like the best approach would be to send it all to Leslie...........

 

LOL ... NOOOOO!!! She wouldn't want to pay what I'd have to ask! This one is a labor of love! Leslie

 

Haha! Thank you, ladies! Yes, a labor of love for sure. So much good information and a lot to think about. I have a little over 3 months to finish this, so I see myself relying on your comments through the process. I also have a friend who is a talented seamstress, so when I finish correcting the lace, I will be sharing all of your input with her as well. Stay tuned and I hope to be able to share the final product with you in the hopeful near future!
Kindly,
Lisa

 

That sounds like a good plan! I'm glad that you have a friend to call on to help you with the project.

I do check in here a couple times a week should you find yourself in need of more questions answered or need some clarification..

We all will truly be excited to see the final product!

Cheerio,
Leslie