Curious necklace

Thanks for these links.
Who knew that wool fluoresces under UV!. Back to my closet!

 

Dark red amber often fluoresces pinkish to a rather sickening colour which I won't go into any further.

 

Here you go-

Is that conclusive or still doubtful?

 

Did you salt the water?
"Salt Water test. In order to do this test you will need about 7 teaspoons of salt and a medium size cup of water. Add all teaspoons of salt into the water and stir well until salt is fully melted."
http://www.thenaturalamber.com/blog/6-amber-tests-identifying-real-amber/

Adding the salt increases the density of the water to be greater than the density of real amber, so it will float. On the other hand, polyethylene is less dense than amber, so it would also float, but ride higher in the water. You need a sample of known polyethylene to try to see how it compares.
Science experiment!

 

Yes I salted the water. In plain water they sank, in salted they floated.
I'd like to try your science experiment but first I'd need some pointers as to how to correctly identify a piece of polyethylene!. Suspect I may be going round in circles here......

 

Just read the next paragraph down on that link about static and these beads do create a static charge. Does polyethylene too is the next question?

 

If you want to try polyethylene, you can check your recycling bin for things marked HDPE or 2 in the triangle.

• "1" signifies that the product is made out of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) (beverage bottles, cups, other packaging, etc.)
• "2" signifies high-density polyethylene (HDPE) (bottles, cups, milk jugs, etc.)
• "3" signifies polyvinyl chloride (PVC) (pipes, siding, flooring, etc.)
• "4" signifies low-density polyethylene (LDPE) (plastic bags, six-pack rings, tubing, etc.)
• "5" signifies polypropylene (PP) (auto parts, industrial fibres, food containers, etc.)
• "6" signifies polystyrene (PS) (plastic utensils, Styrofoam, cafeteria trays, etc.)
• "7" signifies other plastics, such as acrylic, nylon, polycarbonate and polylactic acid (PLA).

But I don't know about the static.
I just thought the surface of your beads looked odd for genuine amber, so have been leaning more towards Any's suggestion about the plastic beads. But you might have the real things.

 

Whether they are or not, it's always good to have a sceptic to question and I'm learning more about polyethylene than I ever thought I needed!.
And I agree, the surface of the beads is not as shiny as the norm although I think they have had a hard life.
I shone a light through the, and they are amazing!

 

Wow. Great find, great thread!

 

Adding to the dark cabinet staying, you're now candling all sort of things
Next step is melting your recycles into beads to test further
For sure, Hubby is going to think about calling ...

Joke apart... I don't know if melted plastic bucket beads would be so translucent, even with a strong light
I'd be in the middle of a happy dance now

 

I agree.

 

Am I given official permission to do a little celebrate now?
Next question is what the heck I do with them- they are different and less polished than most on eBay but is that a positive or not?. Prices are all over the place from £ to ££££- Better well restrung or loose?
I know we don't do values on here but I'm really at a complete loss as to what I've got.
Or restring into two necklaces for the girls ........?

 

Consensus seems to be amber. Congratulations!

 

I do take your reservations on board 2manybooks and will do some more research

 

I'd unstring them, as they aren't born with other components, and list them as old beads possibly red amber, describe all your id process/methods leading towards amber, with all your pics, mesurements and WEIGHT.
Let the buyers decide for what they are.
As I'm not a seller, others may advise you if it is better as BUY IT NOW and make offer or start low with a reserve.

 

Hey @KSW whag did you finally do to the amber beads. Did you sell them?

 

Still in my stash!