Featured More Cameo Fun

I think this is my first post in the jewelry form. I know nothing about cameos, but bought this as a birthday present for a special jewelry lover from someone I trust, so here's hoping you can fill in some blanks. I know there are experts here who know quite a bit about cameos, so fingers crossed....

The appraisal that came with this says: "One shell cameo. The back of the pin stamped 10K. The cameo bezel is a cast and assembled piece, with a high polish finish and is 10K yellow gold. The bezel has a filigree floral type design. The pin stem and clutch are 10K yellow gold. The center of the bezel contains one oval shell cameo, which measures 30 x 23 mm. The cameo is carved in a female profile." I'll add that the drapery seems rather angular and "Romanesque," if you know what I mean.

I'll also add that this is supposed to be ca. 1900 and came from the estate of a long established family here in my part of the U.S. midwest. Is the "clutch" the short gold chain with the "gold" safety pin attached? It's 3 " long.

So: Success (as in a good piece of jewelry) or not so much? Does the date make sense? Does the verbiage sound legit?

Thanks one and all!

 

Hi,
I was always told that,that ski jump nose was a modern invention. 1950s and later. The same for the shorter pin stem. Now realize that I know very little about cameos but I was always told that.
greg

 

I see nothing on the pendant that suggest it was cast,possibly some die stamping.

 

i'm not seeing circa 1900...

 

The clasp is a bit later, but probably pre-1920. Those funny backward-acting locking mechanisms are Intermediate Period, generally. I don't think it's Victorian, but the case at least is old.

 

So, evelyb30, perhaps ca. WWI/1915?

 

In this case 'clutch' is another word for the clasp or catch of the pin.
The short chain is a safety chain with extra pin, mostly seen on quality brooches of the late 19th and early 20th century.

 

Getting some good information here. Does everyone think this is American ca. 1915 or so? Seems like good quality, yes? Any other details?

Can anyone throw out a ballpark replacement or insurance number? I realize it won't be exact, of course.

 

She reminds me of a Ceres/Demeter cameo (I know, she has no wheat).

I like to throw in comments that give @Bronwen a chance to explain, in the kindest way possible, why I'm rubbish at identifying the subjects of cameos.

 

@Bronwen is the cameo expert here and she's sure to step in with some good info.

FWIW, I'll throw out my opinion: 1920s-ish, nice carving, better than many but not really high quality (the hair doesn't seem to have much detail). I think I'd see that priced in the $100-$200 range in a local antique store.

EDIT: Oh, and since you asked, the appraiser's description seems accurate except I, too, am a bit confused by the bezel description as "cast".

 

FWIW, I think the background adds some not commonly seen punch.

Oh, and can you show her from the edge? Curious about the depth of the relief.

 

It's an unusually good appraisal for a jeweller; at least this one correctly IDed the cameo as shell. (You laugh only because you haven't seen the things I have seen.) Typical in that it is mostly descriptive and focussed on the setting. It does not say how the fineness of the gold was confirmed.

The cameo is cut in helmet shell & would have been made in Italy, probably in the area of Naples. The figure derives from classically draped females wearing a diadem, generally seen as being Hera/Juno:



The hinge & type of safety clasp (clutch) are typical of the period, which seems routinely to be referred to as Edwardian, but comprises mainly the reign of George V. Guess they couldn't call it after him since 'Georgian' was already in use for the earlier string of Georges. The cameo can be worn as a brooch or as a pendant suspended from the hinged bail, which also swivels, so it can be hidden flat or raised for use & turned into the right orientation to accommodate a chain. It's a good thing it came with a guard chain, as these fiddly little clasps have a way of opening on their own. It is safer to wear it as a pendant.

The filigree-look frame was popular in the first half of the 1920s. This is a page from an American catalogue from 1920; the items are shown in descending order of price. One like yours was selling for about $27. (I'm not sure if this is a wholesale or retail catalogue; suspect the former.) Gold filled versions were also available.

 

There's an enormous difference between an estimate of 'replacement value for insurance purposes' & how much you would pay today for a comparable piece on eBay. What is it you actually want to know?

 

Great information, thanks so much!

I guess I'm looking for both: replacement value for insurance and a general figure on eBay. I looked there earlier, and found quite a few, with a wide range of prices.

 

Adding swirls to the background and leaving a rim of white around the edge are characteristic touches of Italian work starting in the 20s, when there seems to have been a revival of interest in the art & a move toward finding a new style.

Like I said. Insurance value is whatever you can get some jeweller to put on an official looking form.

 

*profane muttering*

 

It's attractive, appears to have all of its original parts with nothing replaced. It appears to be in good condition. My guess on the date would be early 1920s.

I also think the background adds some interest. Thanks for the info on that, Bronwen.

@Ghopper1924 , I hope the recipient loves it!

 

The jeweler put $700 on the appraisal, which seems pretty high. Maybe $400 to $500 to replace it.

Anyway, thanks for all of the great input in such a short time. The knowledge displayed is gratifying!

 

The bezel is impossible to be cast - too thin of wires. Had to be hand made from pre spooled gold wire. Maybe the 4 "Leaf type pieces" attached to the bezel were cast? I'd say that's what he meant.

 

Like I said. Insurance value is whatever you can get some jeweller to put on an official looking form.

The jeweler put $700 on the appraisal, which seems pretty high.

and there u have it !