Featured Filigree necklace with glass or stone cabochons

Discussion in 'Jewelry' started by wenna, Jul 5, 2018.

  1. wenna

    wenna Well-Known Member

    Hi folks, I am wondering about the origins of this very pretty necklace. Also, I think the cabochons are stones but unsure of what kind(s). Am I correct in using the term 'filigree'? It is about 18" end to end and the center setting is 1" in diameter. Any thoughts, ideas, clues? Thanks for looking! IMG_4466-2.jpg IMG_4467-2.jpg IMG_4468-2.jpg IMG_4469-2.jpg IMG_4470-2.jpg
     
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  2. kyratango

    kyratango Bug jewellery addiction!

    Pretty!!!
    Jadeite, coral, tourmaline cabochons, this wire setting for them, the filigree, and the little flowers around ball are typical for vintage/antique chinese export jewelry.

    I assume it is gilded silver?
     
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  3. wenna

    wenna Well-Known Member

    I was assuming gilded silver as well (also referred to as vermaille?). Haven't tested it or cleaned it up yet. I am a little concerned about damaging the gilding but it's pretty worn already.
     
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  4. kyratango

    kyratango Bug jewellery addiction!

    Yep, vermeil:)
    Better not to clean/polish too harsh, patina shows its age:rolleyes::joyful:
     
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  5. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    It is gorgeous, and probably late 19th-early 20th century.
    I don't think China, I don't see a typical Chinese back on the flowers.
    My guess is Central or Eastern Europe. The style that Bohemian/Czech costume jewellery is based on. They also use these stones/glass, the filigree and cannetille (the flowers around the balls).
    Filigree and cannetille are used in most European styles.
    It is only vermeil if both the silver and gold contents are of a certain fineness, which we don't know yet, and the layer of gold is relatively thick, but not as thick as doublé or goldfilled.
    In both Chinese and Central or Eastern European jewellery, this would be called silver gilt.
     
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2018
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  6. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    Last post appeared twice for some reason.:oops: My computer is having problems today, extremely slow, and posting twice.:rolleyes: I started it again a couple of times, but no change.:(
     
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2018
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  7. kyratango

    kyratango Bug jewellery addiction!

    The use of jadeite is pointing towards China origin to me:confused:;)
     
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  8. wenna

    wenna Well-Known Member

    This does test as silver. Using 18k acid, the scratch test turned a bluish color. The gilding seems to be very thin.
     
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  9. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    It is possible, but I am still not sure.:) Europe used jade as well, Italy is a great jadeite country, as is Russia. I saw a necklace like this before and it was attributed to China, but the seller made mistakes in other listings, so I wasn't really convinced then either.
     
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2018
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  10. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    Yes, it looks delicate. It is best to call it silver gilt, or goldwashed silver.
    The wear isn't a bad thing. As kyra said, it shows the age. It is still a beautiful necklace, I actually like the wear, it gives it extra character.:)
    Is there a mark, on the clasp maybe?
     
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  11. Bronwen

    Bronwen Well-Known Member

    All the cabochons look like glass to me & think it is Bohemian/Czech costume, not what it is based on. The flower brooch on the other hand...
     
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  12. wenna

    wenna Well-Known Member

    I keep looking, but so far I haven't found any marks. I did gently clean it up and nothing further was revealed.
     
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  13. wenna

    wenna Well-Known Member

    I'm not convinced they are stones either, they do appear to be sort of glassy in real life. In any case, this one is a keeper. It goes perfectly with a 'jadeite' colored summer blouse I have and I am wearing them both right now!
     
  14. Ownedbybear

    Ownedbybear Well-Known Member

    My gut feel is 1930s Czech art glass. I'd keep it, too.
     
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  15. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    Yes, they seem like glass on the photos, close ups would help in determining it for sure. This 'folk' quality work, which I think very charming, usually goes with glass. And the Bohemian glass makers were masters at imitating gemstones.
    This is a 1960s Balkan traditional necklace which to me is related to the traditional style yours is based on:
    upload_2018-7-7_12-45-16.jpeg

    These stones are also glass.
    The back, also a simple, rather crude disc:
    upload_2018-7-7_12-46-43.jpeg

    I much prefer yours, but you can see what I mean. The Balkan way of setting stones/glass reflects the Ottoman tradition, either overlapping filigree loops, or bigger bezels that are crimped around a cabochon.
    The links on your necklace are of a type often seen on Art Nouveau necklaces, which is one of the reasons I think it is late 19th-early 20th century.
     
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  16. Ownedbybear

    Ownedbybear Well-Known Member

    Still being made. I've a filigree bracelet which Himself bought me in Ohrid.
     
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  17. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    Yes I have the bracelet as well, and one clip-on earring, the other one was lost long before I got the set.:oops: It'll make a nice pendant.
    They are now reviving traditional filigree making in the Balkans, it had almost died out ca 10 years ago. I am glad they are, good traditions should be cherished.
     
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  18. kyratango

    kyratango Bug jewellery addiction!

    The glass/stone setting on the Czech example isn't same as on these Chinese earrings;)[​IMG]
     
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  19. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    Which site are those from, kyra?

    The necklace I showed is traditional Balkans by the way, not Czech. It is just to show one of the inspirations for Czech jewellery, which is often based on Austro-Hungarian and neighbouring traditions.:)
     
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  20. wenna

    wenna Well-Known Member

    Wow, those earrings are very, very close, including the overlapping loops the stones are set in.
     
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