Featured indonesian textile

Anyone on this forum any idea about indonesian textiles? Quite sure this skirt/long sarong is from Indonesia. Cotton i think. Ikat with flower motive. Blue on blue, the pattern doesn't stand out a lot. Pictures are littel overexposed to better show the pattern. It's sown together from to pieces of cloth (see last picture) and then sown into a tube. Measurements 165 x 56 cm (double).
I'm mostly interested from which island/people but of course age would also be of interest.

 

Although I own several ikats, I don't know much about them in general.
I do know that determining the origin of an ikat can be a very complex matter, because it is made on just about every Indonesian island, by both tribal and non-tribal societies. Indigo ikats are also made in just about every region. Famous dark blue ikats are made by the Batak (Sumatra) and on Sumbawa, but this looks different from their styles.
Do you have any information on former owners? Where the family came from or lived in Indonesia?
I can't see the weave very well, but it looks like a weft ikat (inslag-ikat in Dutch). That means the weft thread is ikat dyed. The pattern isn't on the warp threads on the loom, but it starts to appear when you weave with the weft thread. That technique narrows the origin down.
The free-flowing way the flowers are designed makes me think of a non-tribal region, like Java or parts of Sumatra, but I could be wrong.
As to age, it looks at least early 1900s, possibly older.

 

Alas, no origin information. It was together with different older indonesian textiles: savu selendang, batak karo hip cloth (not a loincloth, dutch heupdoek), dayak kain, javanese batik tulis. In fact the flower pattern on the savu cloth have maybe a little resemblence.

 

I find it hard to discern warp and weft ikat. in this case I would think it to be warp ikat however. The warp direction is horizontal (for all pictures): the selvedges are also horzontal and in the middle sown together.

 

Happy with this age estimate

 

I think you're right. I should have thought of Savu, because it is culturally Javanese, despite the considerable distance from Java. The Savunese even call themselves Hindu-Javanese. I suspect it may be a legacy from the days of the Majapahit empire (1293-ca 1500), when East Java ruled much of SE Asia.
I just looked up ikat Savu, and saw more of the graceful flower motif. No blue, but that doesn't mean they never made blue ikat.
The roses on the ikat you found remind me of the Madura rose motif. Madura is culturally closely related to East Java, and was an equal partner in the Majapahit empire.

Here are some Savunese ladies wearing traditional ikats and Javanese style silver tone belts:



It looks like there could be a blue ikat in the background, left, but it is not clear.

 

Yes, could be it. Colours on my skirt much more subdued (that's why i didn't make the connection at first). More like old woman in this Suva pic on left. And definitely blue too
Wild stab, but in many cultures widows dress less exuberant. Maybe here too?

 

Same here.

Could be. Or maybe the blue ones are older, and the old lady is still wearing th old fashioned style?
Maybe they know at the Wereldmuseum, you can mail them, they are usually pretty quick in mailing back. The bigger museums can take ages, or you ever hear back from them.

 

I thought i already replied, but it doesn't show.

 

so another try

Yes, very plausible.

Thx for the tip, i sent them a email straight away.

 

Will you let us know what they say?

 

of course! (hope they do answer!)

 

Already got back word from the 'wereldmuseum'! The conservator said: This ikat is certainly from Nusa Tenggara Timor, and most likely from Savu. So we were quite right AJ

 

Wonderful, John, thanks for letting us know. You were right, I just agreed.
Yes, the Wereldmuseum people are usually pretty quick, relatively small museum.

 

I was very pleasantly surprised. Never really expected they would take the time!

Very important to me
I have a tendency to see similarities that are realy very weak and need a reality check sometimes

 

Had not noticed at all. Doesn't matter, it takes us on a very nice journey through art forms and mythology.

We all do at times, that's what the forum is for. And for learning, sharing and fun.

 

Thx AJ. Makes me feel a bit freer to post other threads. Felt i posted to many maybe

 

You can never post too many.

 

good to know