Help Identifying Lamp

I recently came across this lamp, which was disassembled in a closet. It has been in our family since pre-1930's. There is a long story behind it, which may/may not be true.

I have removed a layer of gloss black paint, and it is as it sits in the picture. I'd like to restore it to ad original as possible.

I have the stained glass pieces, but need the cap and finial. I believe this lamp to be cast iron/brass. The shade it very delicate.

Any assistance in identifying, so I could hunt down a cap and finial, would be greatly appreciated. Any other input as well... Thanks

 

Here is a similar one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-6-Paneled-Stained-Glass-Table-Center-Lamp-/323768420903

 

This one they are saying it is a Miller.

 

That's a cool lamp. It needs rewiring naturally, and either someone to do the glass (that won't be cheap) or maybe even a parchment insert (not "correct" but a lot easier to handle). The brass needs help too; whoever coated it in black paint needs a spanking. Save that for a modern Chinese copy with a plastic inner shade.

 

Thank you for the input. Once I had the 'Miller' name, this exact design came right up on Google.

It's described as Miller 'Desert Palm Stage Glass" lamp. And it is a 'brassy' color. I'm guessing it was painted the 'brassy' color as the metal is more silver?

 

I have all the stained glass, 8 curved pieces and 8 flat.... At some point this lamp was disassembled and packaged up. Unfortunately the cap and finial was lost, but the glass was wrapped in paper towel.

My mother painted it (in the 1970's) when she needed a lamp for my nursery. I long forgot about it, until I was digging in a closet and it was in a taped up box. I located 'vintage look' wiring and plug, and will re-wire it.

Was going to try and polish the metal? Maybe it was originally painted the brass color? Any input is appreciated.

 

Where would I be able to locate replacement parts?

 

You are missing the lighting cluster and heat cap/finial. The heat cap and finials are easy to find, as reproductions are made. A double light cluster of the right size might be harder. It should look something like this.

You need to make sure that the diameter at the top is exact so that the hole in the top of the lamp shade fits on top, without going over. I can't tell if you might have part of the cluster remaining. What does the shade fit on in your picture?

These shade frames are made of pot metal with a brass plating. Looks like your plating is mostly gone.

 

Correct, I am missing the part the light bulb screws into. I attached a picture of the shade seat. I looked on eBay and some other antique lamp sites, located a reproduction finial, but no cap. Are there places who do brass plating? Any leads on either would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

This place might have what you need. They were really nice when I dealt with them a few years ago. They told me where to buy a part they didn't have.

https://www.antiquelampsupply.com/?...i3IhDtCUVN4WyPxWvy1ZHARPNjFJ6iP4aApWnEALw_wcB

 

If all else fails, you might try Restoration Hardware.

 

This would be the hardest part to find so you are quite lucky. I found several heat caps on ebay but don't know what diameter you need. I wouldn't bother replating your shade. If you found someone to do it, it might exceed the value of the lamp. Besides, it would look shiny new. You would need to patinate it afterwards. Many of these lamps have succumbed to paint over the years and it doesn't affect value all that much.

 

You're also lucky to have all of the original glass pieces, intact. The curved pieces especially. I hope the restoration project works out well for you.

 

I want to thank everyone here, I also restore pre-1975 bicycles and was finding parts for the this lamp far more elusive. It's all about key-words when searching the Internet - and thanks to this forum, I located a reproduction cap and an original finial.

Thinking re-plating may not give the aged look I want (input appreciated) and was thinking of a antique gold paint? Maybe leave it as-is? My decor is more shabby chic (some would say more shabby than chic - ) so maybe the as-is look is where I'll go...

I'll post pictures when the lamp is completed - Thanks Again.

 

Antique gold paint is a good option but will still look a bit one-dimensional. Once dry, I would go over it with a dark brown stain and rub it off the high points to give it a more antique look.

 

Have you ever tried Baroque Wax or Gilders Paste? https://www.gilderspaste.com/
You can use these and make a custom color of your liking, even using a darker mix for highlights. I use this material on the museum items I repair and have to match the color of the original surface like the French three armed candle holder with amber drop beads that had some problems. also great for coloring the gesso repairs on picture frames. I even used to restore a spelter Muse de Boise and a spelter Cinq Mars. Any place that you need to touch up the gilding (gold or silver) and other colors on antique or vintage items, you can use this wax with no fear of destroying the value of the item because it can be removed should anyone want to do so. It sure beats paint to me.

 

What do you use as a final coat? The conservator of frames at the MFA in Boston said they've been using polymer varnish with UVLS. I restore antique frames. I bought some of the polymer but haven't had a chance to use it yet.

 

I agree, the dark brown stain rub would look more authentic. If you really want to get authentic, throw some older rusty metal pieces into some stain and let it sit for a week or two before using it. Remove the metal before using it.

 

Thanks all.... I'm going to try the antique gold paint, then a stained rub. The below is what I have so far:

• Stripped the metal with a citrus stripper.
• Brushed it with a brass brush.
• Rubbed down with steel wool
• Undercoated (product from Michael's - never used before)

Currently baking in the Arizona sun for a day (or so), will steel wool again; then will paint when the cap/finial arrive.

I'm treating it like I do the bikes, but if you have pointers, I'm all ears.