Cracked? Washstand Top

I have a washstand I need to move forward with.

The base is pretty banged up so I'm going to paint it (i said it), but Id like to stain the top if possible.

It has a huge Crack or some kind of makers flaw in it.

Someone has tried filling it in before, but I've removed most of it because it was a botch job.

I'm just afraid if I forgo filling so I can stain it customers will see it as a defective flaw, even though there is no flex or give to the top, which would be if it was cracked, right?

Looking at it it just looks like on one side they didn't cut the tongue and groove right so it just sit separate giving it that tapered "crack".

I don't know, what would y'all do?
Also, does this date to around 1880s?

 

I'd leave it. It gives the piece more country character

 

Mannnnn... if I were keeping it, yes, BirthdayBev, I'd leave it for sure, buttttt...
I'm worried other folks won't see it like that. I guess I would fill it in. If it's steady and strong, it should take the filler nicely, yes, especially under paint?

 

That's my fear, how others will perceive it.

I wanted to keep it for myself as an entry table but the SO says I have too much stuff

 

Wait for Brad the oracle, but I'm thinking that critter is more like1920's, 30's.

 

To me it appears as if the 2 piece top has come unglued. I would use some carpenter's glue to re-glue it and clamp it together until it drys.

 

Would say 1900-20. The crack does look like a split in the wood joint and could probably be repaired as crs suggests. It would involve taking it apart, cleaning the joint really well, gluing, and clamping. Even then, you might not get a perfect bond since this looks like it has been cracked a long time. Whether or not it is worth the trouble is debatable but, if your desire is to stain the top, getting the best look possible would entail fixing this.

Why not paint the whole thing, giving it a "shabby" treatment where the crack would fit the style best. If you want contrast, you can always do a two-tone paint job. My experience is that it is not worth the effort to do much work on furniture these days. This is the kind of item that would sell for under $100.00 in my shop in good condition or painted. It would sell faster painted and the stained top vs. a painted one would provide no advantage in selling.

 

Is there any sort of material that could easily be cut to size to fit over the top? Or would that be too much work and/or too pricey?

 

Well... the RIGHT way would be to follow the good advice above, but... here's a very Mexican solution... I once used Bondo (I sculpt with it sometimes, so I'm familiar with it) to fill in a huge gouge and a crack extending out of it... on an old chest of drawers. I carved and formed a faux surface to match the wood (ya gotta work fast; it dries quickly), and then painted the whole thing. I really thought it looked fine. Sorry, I know the furniture experts are cringing now.

 

Too bad the top isn't a true rectangle - then a quick fill/stain and a piece of glass on top would be an inexpensive way to proceed.

 

I'm just going to fill and paint in guess

 

Have you bought glass lately? Last 1/4" glass I bought with the edges smoothed (not even a finished edge) wasn't even 1/2 this size (10" x 24") and it was over $20.00. Unless there are more cost effective places to buy custom glass, it is not an inexpensive option.

 

I'm working on this piece today and got some new pictures.
Are yall sure it's not older than the 1920s/30s?

 

I also found a making on the back

 

You may shudder, but this is our antique dining room table. One of the leaves has this crack and I never wanted to mess with it. Once I put on a table cloth, you don't know it's there.

 

I thought 1900-20. This is late Golden Oak period furniture. You started to see this furniture in the last couple decades of the 19th century but the plainness of your example and the simple stamped brass hardware indicates a later production piece. The style was pretty much over by the end of WWI but I am sure some persisted through the 20s.

 

Also, your dovetails appear to be machine made. You can tell by the uniform shape. This would also date to the 1910-20's or so.

 

Okay, so I've stripped the top, cleaned out the divide and "test clamped" it. It seemed to go back together pretty well. It Creaked slightly with the last turn or two.

I REALLY want to stain (or use boiled linseed oil) on the top if I can.

I have tight bond 3 wood glue.
Would that be enough to hold it together?

 

Should be good. While your fit looks pretty good, it does not fit perfectly. You will probably still see this bond. Sanding may minimize it some but I doubt you will be able to make an invisible repair. I see the other glue bonds anyway so this may not be an issue for you. The overall appearance will be greatly improved and you will have less objections from potential customers. Occasionally, you will get a crack in another place if you are putting too much stress on the wood when clamping. Often, the glue bond is stronger than the wood surrounding it.

 

When I glued and clamped it didnt go back as tight again.
It still looks alright I guess.
Its been about 16 hours and the glue still hasnt dried.

Ive got a few other projects Im needing to get done.
My patience wont last long before Im going to want to start poking and prodding