Featured Considering this...Belt Buckle? Silver and enamel

Hi all, hope the new year is treating you well so far!

I'm considering this piece as a little birthday present, although my sensible side will be rather cross with me if go ahead with it.

The seller seems rather ambiguous as to what it actually is. The listing says belt buckle with a question mark and that's kind of it. I thought it'd be rather lovely either as that or to thread a heavier scarf through. It has a tiny bit of damage in the corner, some cracked enamel I think. Doesn't look to be missing.

But to help in my decision I've got some questions.

Is this Deco or what age does this have?
What is it?
Does anyone recognise the mark at all?


The seller has offered 21.50 pp, steal or reasonable?
I'm in France.

Thank you all!​

 

Wait, is this English and not french? I assumed the lion was a makers mark, but it should be in a diamond and not in a shield. But if English shouldn't it have more assay marks?

 

is that damage to the centre back pole, looks like the weld has come loose at one end

 

I believe you're right, it does seem to become undone.

 

Definitely not English. It doesn't want to be French either. Scandi maybe?

 

What's the size? Sash buckle is my first thought, a very pretty one.

 

Oh possibly, I wouldn't know though haha! I see French personally but it very well may not be.

I always forget sash buckles exist! This one is 6x4cm.

 

it's cute but unless you're going to wear it often.........pass !
& go out with your friends !!

 

Found it! Norsk Filigransfabrikk from Oslo. Thanks @evelyb30 for the scandi tip!

 

I'll have to check the size but if its not too large I'd wear it with a scarf for sure.

 

Looks like half a sash buckle to me, the one U shaped side hooking into a catch on the missing piece. You could make a new sash and just do a D-ring catch on the other end of your sash.

 

It's a beautiful antique buckle, but I'm not convinced it's Norsk Filigransfabrikk which translates to Norwegian Filigree Factory. The lion is the national symbol of Norway, so wouldn't other silversmiths have used that mark? I'm not an expert on Norwegian jewelry, but have done a little research on some of my own vintage Norwegian silver jewelry.

In any case, an almost identical buckle is listed on Etsy with blue enamel made by Marius Hammer (1847-1927). It has the stylized MH signature.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/261549...how_sold_out_detail=1&ref=nla_listing_details


Most of the Marius Hammer examples I found on Google Images and eBay have some type of MH signature, or the last name spelled out on early pieces. Since your buckle doesn't have a signature, maybe it was made by someone else at the factory after Marius Hammer's death--just a guess. There are other examples of Marius Hammer jewelry including enamel belt buckles on Google Images and eBay.

I would definitely buy the buckle you're considering, even with the damage. There's interesting biographical information about Marius Hammer on the Etsy listing, and also on these websites: https://buymygold.com/artists/scandinavian-designers/marius-hammer.html. and https://www.worthpoint.com/dictionary/p/jewelry/fine-jewelry/marius-hammer-jewelry

P.S. I think the "S" after 925 on the buckle you're considering is a standard way that Scandinavian silver jewelry is marked--sometimes the "S" is before 925, 930, etc. and sometimes after.

I'd use J-B Cold Weld Reinforced Epoxy glue to hold the loose bar in place.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...d_r=01552cbb-e648-4016-a198-46b08756fd66&th=1

 

Here's a link I trust for the mark of Marius Hammer. Neither buckle shown up to this point looks enough like what is shown here to justify claiming they were made by him. But I do agree with Joan that you should not hold back on buying the one shown above!

https://www.silvercollection.it/DICTIONARYEUHALLMARKNORWAYGJ.HTML#NORWAYGJ

 

I don't see a link

 

Was the link
https://www.silvercollection.it/DICTIONARYEUHALLMARKNORWAYGJ.HTML#NORWAYGJ ?
Here's a photo of the signature on the back of the Etsy listing ("M" with a standing hammer in the middle):

It is a little puzzling that the buckle with the amber enamel has such different marks.

 

This Marius Hammer buckle is similar but more refined, and the signature is different than those shown on www.silvercollection.it. The "M" with the standing hammer has a more modern look. Is it possible the buckles shown above are either newer or older versions??? Or are they knock-offs from the same period?
https://www.antiquesinoxford.co.uk/product-page/marius-hammer-silver-and-enamel-buckle

I personally like the amber enameled version the best.

 

Here's a comparison of one of the various Marius Hammer signatures shown on www.silvercollection.it and the signature on the back of the blue enameled buckle on Etsy (shown above). It seems to me the signature on the Etsy buckle is similar enough to claim it's an authentic Marius Hammer piece, or am I missing something?

 

I'm not really understanding all that's going on here, but the original buckle posted by RachelW was without question produced by Norsk Filigransfabrikk, and the others cited were produced by Marius Hammer - the dating would be from the late 19th century into the early 20th century. Should be aware that those lighter areas on the NF piece are almost certainly enamel loss...

~Cheryl

 

I concur...

 

Thank you all for your replies! I love discussions about marks.

By the lightened areas, do you mean here? I thought they were just reflections, but they aren't. There seem to be two small cracks on either corner, is the lightness enamel loss or just some sort of air pocket? The area still looks shiny to me..