Featured CAMEOS: Show & Tell or Ask & Answer

I think the leather appeals to younger goth types

 

The bondage cameo look would not suit me, but wouldn't turn down any of the rings. I appreciate that she starts with good cameos & shows them off in simple settings, rather than buying poor quality modern ones then trying to disguise them with busy, florid metal work.

 

@kyratango Any tips for me? Bought this 18K cameo ring, described as hardstone, ignoring the clues that were available in seller's photos, even though not the sharpest:



Naturally, the first thing I did was clean her, then clean her some more, with special attention to the line around the edge of the figure where there was considerable accumulation of grime. I wanted to see if my immediate impression with her in hand was correct: she looked like glass.

Was being fairly vigorous with the little child's toothbrush I use when there was the sound of a clunk in the sink.



Seller has offered to take her back, but she fits me well & is very pretty when she hasn't lost her head. I want to glue her back. However, I am not the handiest person in the world. I need to get enough glue on without getting so much it oozes out around the edges, and I need to get her well positioned (she's tiny) when I don't have the steadiest hands. How would you go about applying the glue & mating the 2 pieces?

 

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_glass/overview/Loctite-Glass-Glue.htm

 

Oohh, @Bronwen, glad you were vigourous when washing the charming little thing, and lucky the sink was closed, she would have fall later when wearing!!!

Holly is right, Loctite for glass is perfect (my repair glue!)

You need something "sticky" to hold the tiny head... If you can make kind of a "dop stick" like these:

using a chewing gum (chewed, room temperature, not just from your mouth) on top of a small rod.

I'd pour a drop of glue on a tinfoil (again!), pick tiny amount with a tooth pick and apply scarcely on the back of the head, held on the rod by the chewing gum, then press the dop stick putting the lady in place, hold pressed a moment.
Wait 10 minutes before removing your "handle" (placing the whole thing in refrigerator will help to un stick the chewing gum!).

Keep us updated

 

I was unfamiliar with the Loctite brand, but do have some other clear super glue-type liquid adhesive. I could not tell what was different about the formulation for glass. It sounds the same in that clean, dry surfaces have to meet smoothly; it does not fill in any gaps. (The table part of the cameo is smooth. The back of the figure feels faintly textured to me but hopefully just enough for the glue to get a good grip without disturbing the bond.) Is there any significant difference between the glass-specific one & others?

I was planning on putting a dab of glue onto some wax paper (am I the last person who has this around?) & applying to the back of the figure with a toothpick. It's figuring out how to handle the figure & maneuver it into place quickly without gluing it to my own fingers that is challenging me. Something to do the job of a dop stick is definitely what's needed. Had not thought of chewing gum, was wondering if I could somehow use the putty I have for taking impressions of intaglios. But I also have to be able to see exactly where I'm placing the piece while holding it securely. Am going to see if clear packing tape holds the figure securely enough for long enough. Only thing I can think of that might allow me both to get a grip & see what I'm doing.

And, most important, make sure the work space is cat fur-free. Will let you know. Thanks to both of you.

 

When you are not very safe with the use of cyanolacrilates bronwen, for glass you need the UV hardening version which doesn't glue under some halogen lamps for example or very slowly.
I've make some experiences with gluing since years because I've worked in the water security on submarine glueing and with some cyanolacrilates you can broke the glass when it's thin due to the exothermic reaction in part and with tension made during the process, never had that problem with other materials.
When you use UV glue it's more easy to stay totally clean, to make the reaction I use an old tanning lamp, those which make a lot skin cancer…

 

Just to show my ignorance, what is the proper name for this image? I ought to know, but while I've snagged a few cameos here and there I'm no expert. She's conch shell.

 

There really isn't one. She's a transitional form, not quite a classic Flora, not yet modernized to the corsage-wearing beauty of the 1920s-30s, popular early 20th century.

 

Brownen, my older sister has a box of Cut Rite Wax Paper in her kitchen - with a
39¢ price stamp (ink, with a circle around it) on the box! (It had belonged to my grandmother, who passed away in 1966.)

My older sister apparently doesn't use much wax paper, but I do - I go thru 2 or 3 rolls of it a year!

 

I use more than that. That box of Grandma's might be collectible at this point!

 

Hi,
I go through two boxes a year.
It is great when glueing things to save the kitchen table. Although my kitchen table is an old enameled one. I end letting it dry on the dining room table.
greg

 

If you're using specified cyanolacrylates like the Loctite 354, it can glue your skn through wax paper, silicon protections, nitril gloves, then be very careful with your own protection, always put a good protective cream on your hands before gluing with those chemical items(it exist specific cream made to permit cleaning after the work which gives a good protection).

 

Hi,
Thanks for the warning but all parts of me can be fixed. I can not say the same for my table tops.. My kitchen table is 85 years old, my dining room table is 130 years old.
greg

 

I use waxed paper all the time for both cooking and repair work also

 

Found in a box that I packed away 10 years ago. Marked and tested positive for 18 kt. Each piece is approximately 3/4" long and 1/2" wide. I don't think this is an antique. She did a lot of travelling so it may have been purchased in Italy somewhere between 1960's through the middle of the 1980's. Do you think the dating is in the right range?

 

It does seem right & since it's 18K, probably was made in Italy. Definitely not antique. Nicely made, with a good figure 8 safety catch. The jump rings holding the safety chain have not been soldered, making me wonder if it is an addition.

 

The safety chain is an addition.

 

Hi Mill Cove,
What a wonderful bracelet!!!!!!!!!!!!
greg

 

Thank you.