Theater costume? What period were these made?

Hello Antiquers!

I was wondering if someone might be able to help me identify the period of these lovely pieces. They were sewn on a sewing machine but home made.

The purple blouse is a modern size medium with mother of pearl shell buttons on the cuff and on the front closure. The top has a mandarin collar and shoulder pads under the top gathered sleeves. It's made of medium weight cotton.

The skirt is heavy cotton with a raised textured pattern alone the dark green with a drawstring in the back. It has pockets and goes to around mid-calf when worn at the waist.




This was found in France for reference.

The blouse looks newer to me than the skirt with the shoulder pads and collar. The skirt has pockets but I thought chatelaine's were common in the early 20th century so I was wondering if it's a theater costume? The seller seemed to think they were made around the same time.

Any help would be much appreciated! Thank you.

 

Is there a chatelaine there that I don't see or are you wondering why there is not one? Something about the presence of pockets?

I doubt the outfit is as early as early 20th century because of the shoulder pads.

 

Sorry! I wasn't clear. I just meant I didn't think pockets were used in the early 20th century because people used chatelaine's instead.

 

Hard to tell from one photograph but... I don't see anything old, old. Is there a reason why you believe the pieces belong together? And why do you think they might be a costume? Are the shoulder pads oversized? And the skirt has only a drawstring closure with no zipper or snaps? Mid-calf is going to put you well into the 1900s. And to my eye, these pieces could very possibly be late 1900s. 1980ish.

Debora

 

The colors made me think 1980s too.

 

From the single photo provided, they do look like 1980s home economics class projects due to the styling and the fabric choices. And they don't look like they would have been worn together.
It would be helpful if you provide close up photos of the buttons, the skirt closure, the inside of the skirt hem, inner seams, etc.

 

Thank you for all of the replies! Nothing in particular made me think they're older. I thought the style looked like an old petticoat but I'm also very much a beginner and don't have much of an eye yet. I figured the blouse was newer because of the shoulder pads but thought the skirt might have still been first half of the 20th Century. The skirt only has the drawstring closure so no zips or buttons. Thank you for your help! I always learn so much from the experienced eyes here.

 

The blouse has a "leg of mutton" sleeve, which has an interesting history for Fashionistas. Doing a Google search brought up one exactly like yours being sold today. The collar and buttons appear the same. No opinion on the skirt.

Details: The puff at the top of the sleeves can have varying degrees of pronunciation depending on the fashion and the figure of the wearer. The top puff was a lot pronounced in earlier fashion than in modern fashion. This full-on fullness was maintained with a lot of external aids like netting, stiff lining, etc inside the sleeves.

 

Hmmm, I certainly see puff sleeves but I wouldn't have classified them as leg o'mutton. With l o'm sleeves, the size of the puff can vary, but the lower part of the sleeve should taper below the elbow and become fitted as it approaches the wrist, OP's shirt does not do this. JMHO.

 

I see full puffed sleeves as well but nothing I would consider leg o' mutton.

Debora

 

It's difficult evaluating pieces from one photograph.

Debora

 

Thank you for your kindness and understanding.

 

They could easily be from the late 20th century, 70’s to early 1980’s in particular; if I had a copy of my senior picture handy, you would see why I would think so. Early 20th century inspired fashion was big.

Google “Gunne Sax” and you’ll see what I mean.

I think part of the problem here is that of nomenclature. Pockets were quite common in skirts very early in the 1900’s, and not unusual in the two centuries before that. They were just more discreet the earlier one goes.

That said, certainly by the 1830’s, if one didn’t have pockets, a reticule (and later handbags and purses) would replace the pockets, just as it does now.

A Chatelaine was more like carrying your cell phone by a fancy wristlet.

“A chatelaine is a decorative belt hook or clasp worn at the waist with a series of chains suspended from it. Each chain is mounted with useful household appendages such as scissors, thimbles, watches, keys, vinaigrette, and household seals. Wikipedia”

For a brief history of pockets, try here:
https://www.folkwear.com/blogs/news/pockets-if-you-please-a-quest-for-pocket-independence

Fashion timeline- https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/

Welcome, and good on you for asking questions. That’s how I learned!

 

More on pockets: https://thedreamstress.com/2022/02/the-extant-kilbirnie-skirt-a-ca-1915-skirt/