Featured Art deco, platinum, ring - help identifying a hallmark

Discussion in 'Jewelry' started by Dyrektoressa, Oct 19, 2021.

  1. Dyrektoressa

    Dyrektoressa Member

    Hi everyone,

    I wanted to ask for help with identifying my ring's hallmark.
    I know only its general specification:
    platinum, 1 sapphire ~ 0,50ct, 12 diamonds in t. ~ 1,00 ct H/VS, weight 3,09g.
    It was dated: 1920s - 30s, art deco.

    The hallmark is nice and clear, but I couldn't find a match.
    I am dying to get to the bottom of its origin.

    Hallmark: NHH and B 950 (950 = platinum but I don't know what this small 'B' means) with a bent sword located below the 'B 950' - please see the photos attached.

    I thought it might be French, but I have never seen a french art deco ring with this engraved floral decoration on the ring... Plus, I couldn't find matching French hallmarks.

    It was a gift from my dad and it would make us both happy to learn more about this little beauty.
    I would be grateful for your help.

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    Last edited: Oct 19, 2021
  2. Dyrektoressa

    Dyrektoressa Member

    Update - I figured out that hallmark were made in Hungary between 2001-2016 (the symbol of B950 and the bent sward) by the Assay Authority of the Hungarian Trade Licensing Office in Budapest (NHH in this weird shape which is apparently a signature hallmark shape for Hungary - I am attaching the draft of the "application for the permit of use of the responsibility mark" from the Hungarian gov website). Probably the previous owner wanted to sell it and needed professional expertise.

    But it doesn't solve my riddle fully, as this floral engraving is still very intriguing for me.

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    janettekay, pearlsnblume, KSW and 5 others like this.
  3. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    Great that you found it, Dyrektoressa, and thank you for posting the info.
    It looks like the floral decoration is cast as part of the ring, not engraved.
    Floral decoration on a ring shank is not unusual, and it is just that, decoration.
    That it is found on a Hungarian ring is certainly not unusual, because antique Austro-Hungarian rings often had floral decoration on the shank, so there is a tradition.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2021
    judy, pearlsnblume, KSW and 1 other person like this.
  4. Hollyblue

    Hollyblue Well-Known Member

    This does not look like it was cast. Hand fabricated rather crudely and hand engraved.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2021
    judy and Bronwen like this.
  5. pearlsnblume

    pearlsnblume Well-Known Member

    I think it is pretty.
     
    judy and Any Jewelry like this.
  6. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    Yes it is, and a lovely gift too.
     
    judy likes this.
  7. Dyrektoressa

    Dyrektoressa Member

    Oh wow! Thank you! It has Hungarian hallmarks and I hadn't thought about the Austro-Hungarian Empire! It makes sense now as I found some examples with pretty similar floral decorations. I can assume it was produced in Hungary soon after WW1 and the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, right?

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    source: https://antiquesprague.cz/en/recommended/6358-gold-ring-with-diamond-and-emeralds.html

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    source: https://www.kalmarantiques.com.au/product/austro-hungarian-art-deco-diamond-ring/
     
    judy likes this.
  8. Dyrektoressa

    Dyrektoressa Member

    So interesting! Thank you! I took a few more photos as I thought it might shed some light on this cast vs. engraving situation. I am not sure if I would be able to see the difference myself.

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    Last edited: Nov 7, 2021
    judy likes this.
  9. Dyrektoressa

    Dyrektoressa Member

    Thank you :)

    Thank you :)
     
    judy likes this.
  10. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    No, much later, because the mark is 2001-2016.
    The thing is, local traditions don't suddenly stop because an Empire falls apart. They continue for as long as people like them.
     
    BoudiccaJones likes this.
  11. Dyrektoressa

    Dyrektoressa Member

    Hi Any Jewelry. I would rather say that the hallmark itself was added much later:) The ring was certainly produced in the last century. It is a pretty popular practice - lots of antique/vintage jewellery have no marks at all.
     
  12. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    The mark on your ring is for newly made items, it is not for old items.
    Not really. It is only done in some countries and in some cases. In such a country and such a case, if an old piece is marked, it has a special mark. It doesn't happen very often.
     
    BoudiccaJones and komokwa like this.
  13. Dyrektoressa

    Dyrektoressa Member

    I hear your point but an auction house verified this ring so I would stick to the dating they've made. Plus, the assay that stamped the ring does not produce jewellery but is responsible for verification only (Assay Authority of the Hungarian Trade Licensing Office in Budapest).
    I am not a specialist at all. That is why I ask so many questions :) I will contact this auction house and ask how did they estimate the ring's age. Thank you!!!
     
  14. Any Jewelry

    Any Jewelry Well-Known Member

    Believing auctioneers is generally not the best decision to make.;)
    I am aware of how assay offices work, which is why I explained what I did in post #12.

    Anyway, enjoy your ring, it is a lovely gift.
     
    BoudiccaJones and komokwa like this.
  15. Dyrektoressa

    Dyrektoressa Member

    Thank you:)
     
    Any Jewelry likes this.
  16. Hollyblue

    Hollyblue Well-Known Member

    The circled areas are all "solder" joints from the ring being fabricated and not cast.There are probably more that I can't see in the photos,it was hand engraved. XXltOs0-2.jpg
     
    Dyrektoressa likes this.
  17. Dyrektoressa

    Dyrektoressa Member

    Heavens! This is amazing! What an attention to detail. I would never think about it. Thank you for pointing this out.
     
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