Featured Antique velvet gold court belt with silver and gem buckle, Indonesia.

My latest acquisition, a nice piece with a family association. And it fits!

It is a Madurese black velvet belt with goldwork embroidery and a silver and zircon buckle and slide.
In Indonesia gold was associated with the heavens and the divine representatives on earth, the kings. Gold and gold embroidery used to be reserved for royalty. Although I don't think this is actually gold, this still has the same restriction. The buckle and slide are silver, which means this belt was worn by a 'lesser' royal.
Madura is a former island nation north of Java. It is in the middle of the spice route and comprises of 68 islands, in its heyday part of Java as well. A small nation with little arable land, the spice route provided a very good income through trade. Trade was banned for Madurese during most of the colonial period, with devastating results.
There were several courts and ruling families, with one supreme king, the Cakraningrat. Cakra comes from Sanskrit and means wheel or cycle, in this case the cycle of the cosmic order, ningrat means king or ruler. So a Cakraningrat is a ruler who has to make sure the law of cosmic order is followed on earth. In pre-colonial days the Cakraningrat was the one rulers of neighbouring kingdoms came to for council and mediation.
Cakraningrat (also Tjakraningrat) is originally a dynastic name, Cakraningrat I, II, etc., but during the colonization by the Dutch it became the surname of the royal family. I am a descendant of that family, so I collect anything with a Cakraningrat connection. This set was listed in an Art Nouveau auction. Right period, wrong style, so not many bidders. It has lost some stones and the belt is worn, but that's history for you.



Couldn't find pictures of Madurese courtiers, but this one of princess Partini of Surakarta (a distant relative) shows how the belt was worn. Her buckle is Central Javanese style.

 

Congratulations on winning the auction. Its a gorgeous belt, and so wonderful that it has a family connection!

 

Thanks, I am very happy with it. I can even wear it to formal occasions, not that there are many of those nowadays. But if and when they present themselves, I'm ready.
I have been planning to show some of my ethnic, etc. collection with some background info, thought this would be a nice start.

 

A very nice start! And since it is a culture/ethnicity I know little about, I am awaiting your future "show & tell" posts with great interest.

Thank you for sharing!

 

I second Mansons,thank you for sharing.

 

Exactly, I'm right behind Mansons and Johnny.
Thoroughly enjoyed your opening post.

 

I'm right behind cluttered, can't wait to see more!

What a beautiful piece, thank-you for the history

 

Thanks everyone.
I have jewellery, etc. from all over the world, I will select different regions and styles. It is a wonderful world.
And Indonesian cultures are very different from anything else. The country is an island bridge between Asia and the Pacific in every way, nature, culture, beliefs, languages, arts. When you think you are onto something East Asian or Hindu, you suddenly get a Polynesian vibe, etc. And forget about it being the largest Muslim nation in the world. Sure, nominally, but if you look below the surface it's a different story.

 

Really lovely, it's good to find things that aren't categorized correctly

 

Yes, my favourite mistake. That's how I acquire most of my things.

 

And ME