Dating and "restoring" bench

Discussion in 'Furniture' started by SeaGoat, Dec 22, 2015.

  1. SeaGoat

    SeaGoat Well-Known Member

    Okay, I thought I would create a thread away from the "stuck drawer" now that it is unstuck.

    I would like to date, identify, and restore the piece if I can.

    The pictures do not include a top as its not original but its just a piece of plywood cut to fit, stuffed with brown vinyl stapled on. Not cute.
    Its only a few inches from the top to the bottom piece that separates it from the drawers.

    Ill probably reuse the piece, but put a more attractive fabric back over the top.
    I was thinking of hinging the top so it can lift up and down and stay in place.

    The only thing giving me pause on the hinge idea is the back piece. It seems to have been "lipped" out, which I fear would leave it vulnerable to easy breakage.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    It also seems to have had some sort of feet that inserted into the bottom?
    What kind of feet would they have been?
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    If possible (and affordable) Id like to replace the locks on it. Where would I start my search on appropriate locks?
    [​IMG]


    All in all, what period do yall think this is (Victorian is my guess) and what was its original intended use?
    Would it be terrible to sand it down and restain it?
     
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  2. KingofThings

    KingofThings 'Illiteracy is a terrible thing to waist' - MHH

    Not sure how you would restore it since it will not be at all easy to find a top large enough and old enough...
    1) How about making it a 'coffee' table? Glass top or not...
    2) 'Bun' feet maybe....
    3) Maybe Formby's will bring it back somewhat.
    4) Try http://www.vintagehardware.com/index.php
    5) Not sure but looks too far gone for salvation to what it was....
    If it doesn't come out well you could paint it..............I suppose. :p
     
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  3. evelyb30

    evelyb30 Well-Known Member

    I'd think more 1920 than 1890, and as it's already been damaged I'd say go ahead and mess with it. Like the King says, it's too far gone to restore to original condition no matter what. I wouldn't paint the drawers, at least not inside. It can swell the wood and the drawers stick enough as it is. Bun feet sound about right; I might throw casters on it so you can move it around. Or maybe those furniture slides.
     
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  4. verybrad

    verybrad Well-Known Member

    This looks to be a circa 1875 base to a wardrobe. Can't tell if this is oak or walnut from these pics. Usually the latter from this era. Here is a similar intact wardrobe from the same era......

    [​IMG]

    I would not hinge the top unless you modify the piece so that there is a cover over the drawers that would serve as bottom to the area that you are providing access to. I don't think there is a whole lot of room there to do this and really make it worthwhile. You might have to beef up the back as well to be able to handle the stress of the hinge if you decide to do this.

    It would have had casters inserted into those holes on the bottom.
     
  5. SeaGoat

    SeaGoat Well-Known Member

    I think you may be right about the wardrobe!
    There is a wooden cover over the drawers already.

    It doesn't look oak to me so I think walnut.

    Id still like it to be a bench for an entry way or end of a bed..
     
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  6. verybrad

    verybrad Well-Known Member

    Are you talking about the groove cut into the top of the back rail? This was done to accept the continuation of the back pieces of the wardrobe. You would want to beef this up if hinging the top.
     
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  7. verybrad

    verybrad Well-Known Member

    Didn't catch that but can see it now in the above pic of the piece upside-down. This reinforces the idea that this is a wardrobe base. It would have served as the bottom of the wardrobe.
     
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  8. SeaGoat

    SeaGoat Well-Known Member

    I think it would fit a blanket or two in there, maybe :)

    So you think if I inserted some plywood thin enough to fit snuggly in that groove it would beef it up enough to hinge?
     
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  9. verybrad

    verybrad Well-Known Member

    It would certainly help it. I would be more inclined to tandem a board the entire length with glue and screws to give double the thickness to attach the hinge into.
     
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  10. KingofThings

    KingofThings 'Illiteracy is a terrible thing to waist' - MHH

    Yep!
    Also reinforce it at any attachment point to the main frame for the load on the hinge will begin to pull the whole thing away from the sides when opened. Especially if left hanging. :p
    Are you going to use piano hinge?
     
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  11. SeaGoat

    SeaGoat Well-Known Member

    Would a piano hinge be my best option?
     
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  12. KingofThings

    KingofThings 'Illiteracy is a terrible thing to waist' - MHH

    I would say yes. It spreads the load out evenly.
    They come in brass and stainless, polished and not, wimpy to beefy.
    If you buy and use one too thin and narrow I suspect you will wish you didn't for this project.
     
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  13. SeaGoat

    SeaGoat Well-Known Member

    Thanks! I didn't even think of a piano hinge, but I will use that!
     
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  14. KingofThings

    KingofThings 'Illiteracy is a terrible thing to waist' - MHH

    :)
    Make sure the leaves are each at least 1" wide and not laterally flexible.
    If they are they will not lay flat especially when the load is on them, more so if soft brass.
    You can cut them to length with a hacksaw, the continuous pin will be the hardest to cut for it wants to roll and the material is made harder for this.
    To stop this, and to keep it from walking out of one end or the other, do this>>> Before cutting lay it out flat. Mark it to length and figure the following info out before cutting.
    Don't leave a little wimpy piece on an end. Plan to either cut it off equal at each end, say half of a hinge roll, or just leave it short on the item a bit. It probably doesn't have to go full length and show at the end of the furniture.
    Mark the center of the first hinge roll within the length you will use.
    Use a sharp punch to pinch the pin into the hinge. You can do this at each end but be sure they are in the same half of the hinge or it will bind. DO NOT distort the hinge roll.
    Cut the hinge and file it smooth. You could also radius the corners to make it look more finished.
    After you've cut it, and before attachment, be sure the pin isn't rolling in the half you pinched it to. If it does, punch it again and you could do this in more places as well.
    Have fun! :)
     
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  15. Ownedbybear

    Ownedbybear Well-Known Member

    Certainly bun feet. I'd go a bit mad and find something odd and funky as a top. Something repurposed.
     
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  16. SeaGoat

    SeaGoat Well-Known Member

    I'm wondering if I cut the top piece *into 2 sections, a left lid and right lid, if it would take a lot of stress off* the piece.
    It would certainly be cheaper buying fabric that way..
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2015
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  17. KingofThings

    KingofThings 'Illiteracy is a terrible thing to waist' - MHH

    THAT is a great idea!
    I did originally think you could simply make it glass and make the drawers displays.
    Then these hinging issues are moot.
    Or...as Joey on 'Friends' said..."A moo point." ;)
     
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  18. verybrad

    verybrad Well-Known Member

    I don't think the stress of opening and closing is much of an issue here if you beef up that back rail. I would be more concerned about the stability and support of the seat when used for sitting. If you make this two pieces, you want to make sure the center support is adequate. I also think appearance is an issue to think about. A single seat is better looking IMHO.
     
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  19. SeaGoat

    SeaGoat Well-Known Member

    Finished! I ended up not hinging the top because I didn't want to take the risk of breaking anything.

    I love it and already having several people interested in it breaks my heart a bit, but I guess that's the nature of the business.
    Can't keep everything :(
    collage_20160118112451098_20160118141355784.jpg
     
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  20. Marie Forjan

    Marie Forjan Well-Known Member

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